Jump to content
SAU Community

Hot Wheels

jko_one

By jko_one,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

jko_one Enthusiast

jko_one

Posted
Posted

Today when i got to work i just happened to look at my back left wheel

when i touched it it was crankin' hot compared to the rest of them

Just wondering what this could be?

theres no burning metal smell ,the park brake was definately off while driving

and no noticeable pull to the left

wheel bearing mabye?

Cant get it looked at until tuesday, should i not drive it until then?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253848-hot-wheels/
Share on other sites
sleeper393 Collaborator

sleeper393

Posted
Posted
Today when i got to work i just happened to look at my back left wheel

when i touched it it was crankin' hot compared to the rest of them

Just wondering what this could be?

theres no burning metal smell ,the park brake was definately off while driving

and no noticeable pull to the left

wheel bearing mabye?

Cant get it looked at until tuesday, should i not drive it until then?

take for quick drive around the block , use the brakes as little as possiable then when you get home feel the centre of the wheel hub of sus wheel ,if hot compared to others its the bearings , cheers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253848-hot-wheels/#findComment-4386266
Share on other sites
Tommy Kaira RL Mentor

Tommy Kaira RL

Posted
Posted
Today when i got to work i just happened to look at my back left wheel

when i touched it it was crankin' hot compared to the rest of them

Just wondering what this could be?

theres no burning metal smell ,the park brake was definately off while driving

and no noticeable pull to the left

wheel bearing mabye?

Cant get it looked at until tuesday, should i not drive it until then?

it could be different tyre pressures the same thing happens on trucks with the 2 wheels on each axle if one is a bit flat the other one is going to do all the work and get hot

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253848-hot-wheels/#findComment-4386269
Share on other sites
sleeper393 Collaborator

sleeper393

Posted
Posted
it could be different tyre pressures the same thing happens on trucks with the 2 wheels on each axle if one is a bit flat the other one is going to do all the work and get hot

ah ha more minds equal more solutions , good thought on tyre pressures :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253848-hot-wheels/#findComment-4386408
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...