Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so today i decided to play mechanic and troubleshoot a few idling, low rpm cruising problems ive been having. started by cleaning the afm. no worries there, though it was a waste of time since its only 10000km old. and then i thought id check for vac leaks.

ive been convinced there has been one for a while now. im adamant the car is not as responsive or powerful as it should be, given the state of modification.

so i blocked up the snorkel pipe with a can of beetroots lol and whacked an airgun on one of the manifold hoses. firstly, air came whoosing out everywhere from the u-shaped black pcv hose. turns out its split on the base about 2cm along. went down the st and got some hose, replaced that.

then fed some air in again, heard a hissing coming from near the throttle body this time. had a look, found a strange hose coming out the base of the throttle body. i traced it across the engine bay to the charcoal cannister. i dont know much about them, but i figured its connected to the intake, so ill blast some air down it and see if its leaking at the cannister.

this resulted in very loud hissing from the back of engine bay. obviously it was going to be very difficult to find/fix this. after some time i realised it was actually coming from under the car wtf! jacked it up, and lo and behold, there is a nice big hose wide open near the cat, and going nowhere!!

seems the idiot caryard thought it would be a good idea to plumb the charcoal cannister into the atmosphere, which to my understanding, means the engine is sucking air from under the car while on vacuum, and blasting air out the same place when on boost. so basically my car has been nowhere near optimal performance since ive had it.

i decided fk it, just block the charcoal cannister off. and retest the system for leaks. apparently it reached pressure rather quickly this time, and blew the snorkel off the turbo! great, probably the hardest hose to get to on the whole car. had to take off two other hoses, and it was still a bitch to get to. then when i was putting it back together, i lightly twisted a boost controller hose, which was apparently enough for it to fall apart in my hands! now i have to wait until tomorrow to buy some hose to replace that!

WHO'D BE A MECHANIC?!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253979-idiot-fkn-mechanics/
Share on other sites

Yep some of them are just plain lazy.

Had my 100k service done, the next day the fan belt starts squealing on cold start. No biggie, new belts always stretch. take it back.. "it's the power steering belt give me 10 mins mate no dramas see you later"

next day it squeals again. go back, they tighten it more and say it's at the end of the adjustment range if it squeals again we'll order a smaller belt (wtf?). i ask if it could be the alternator belt but he insists it's the power steering. drive home.

greeted by a small puddle of oil under my car in the morning. book it in again. car comes back "we THINK it's the cam seals, replaced them for you no charge". engine continues to drip oil for 3 days then it stops.

belt squeal comes back. book it in again, they change the power steering belt. next morning it squeals again.

meanwhile the car has also been using water, i have topped up the overflow reservoir about 4 times since the service.

decide to DIY rather than lose another day of having the car at the mech's. it's a new belt so maybe it stretched. tighten the P/S belt with no effect. next day, time to prove it's not the P/S belt. remove P/S belt and start engine - big squeal. kinda hard for a belt to squeal when it's sitting on my bench!

tighten the alternator belt, refit P/S belt with less tension than before (i wound it up pretty tight) and no squeal issues. f***kign hopeless mechanic dropkick idiots!!

car has also stopped using water, at least there is nothing major wrong the lazy f**ks just didn't bother to bleed the system when they did the 100k service, so they gave it back to me with about 2 litres of air in the system. great.

never ever ever use those cockwads again. and if they haven't done the 100k service properly and my timing belt lets go I'm sending them a bill. seriously if you can't even tell which belt is squealing you should be flipping burgers at mcdonalds.

hhahaha thats effed.

when i had my engine replaced, along with the turbz, the dickheads didnt even set the wastegate actuator. so basically it was wide open all the time and wouldnt make boost until about 5500rpm lol.

took me months to figure that shit out.

oh and then they installed the ebc wrong, so needless to say i dont go there anymore.

It's very hard to find good help these days.

They all talk the talk, but fck it up when they are doing the job.

Thats why i do everything myself now.

I try to do everything my self, recently spent $500 on parts trying to fix a problem, ended up having to take it to a mechanic, another $500 later and its fixed with a power fc tune, if you have a good mechanic sometimes its cheaper to just give to them.

yeah true, but it's very hard to find a good mechanic.

i love having a profec b boost controller. you clear it before you hand over the keys, and then when you pick the car up you can quickly see if they gave it some stick when they took it around the block. i caught a tyre bloke who obviously couldnt resist the urge to wind it out, but wasnt quite annoyed enough to get up them.

my local mechanic who just does my servicing etc, seems pretty good. he only got up to 3psi. maybe because i work on the next corner... but you can hear my car in the next suburb.

lol

im going to give jem (ingleburn) a go next time. they seem very professional.

I always have worked on my own cars, the only time one of my cars have ever gone to a mechanics/panel beaters is when i had a N14 pulsar and a nipple on the throttle body had a minor crack so i took it to where my mate worked and they welded on a new nipple for me and thats about it.

Other than that it is me or sometimes i get a mate to help me out if i am stumped or need a extra pair of hands.

Yep some of them are just plain lazy.

Had my 100k service done, the next day the fan belt starts squealing on cold start. No biggie, new belts always stretch. take it back.. "it's the power steering belt give me 10 mins mate no dramas see you later"

next day it squeals again. go back, they tighten it more and say it's at the end of the adjustment range if it squeals again we'll order a smaller belt (wtf?). i ask if it could be the alternator belt but he insists it's the power steering. drive home.

greeted by a small puddle of oil under my car in the morning. book it in again. car comes back "we THINK it's the cam seals, replaced them for you no charge". engine continues to drip oil for 3 days then it stops.

belt squeal comes back. book it in again, they change the power steering belt. next morning it squeals again.

meanwhile the car has also been using water, i have topped up the overflow reservoir about 4 times since the service.

decide to DIY rather than lose another day of having the car at the mech's. it's a new belt so maybe it stretched. tighten the P/S belt with no effect. next day, time to prove it's not the P/S belt. remove P/S belt and start engine - big squeal. kinda hard for a belt to squeal when it's sitting on my bench!

tighten the alternator belt, refit P/S belt with less tension than before (i wound it up pretty tight) and no squeal issues. f***kign hopeless mechanic dropkick idiots!!

car has also stopped using water, at least there is nothing major wrong the lazy f**ks just didn't bother to bleed the system when they did the 100k service, so they gave it back to me with about 2 litres of air in the system. great.

never ever ever use those cockwads again. and if they haven't done the 100k service properly and my timing belt lets go I'm sending them a bill. seriously if you can't even tell which belt is squealing you should be flipping burgers at mcdonalds.

local garage?

seems the idiot caryard thought it would be a good idea to plumb the charcoal cannister into the atmosphere

They're all plumbed to atmosphere in the same spot, it's to prevent the discharge of fuel vapour under the bonnet, which would be a bit of a fire hazard. Heaps of people people block them off, doesn't really make a difference one way or the the other. The amount of air bleeding out of that small tube would be minimal.

They're all plumbed to atmosphere in the same spot, it's to prevent the discharge of fuel vapour under the bonnet, which would be a bit of a fire hazard. Heaps of people people block them off, doesn't really make a difference one way or the the other. The amount of air bleeding out of that small tube would be minimal.

i disagree. im not entirely sure where its supposed to go, though i have heard something about it going to the fuel tank? you are possibly correct about that, though in theory its the same as having a hole in your plenum. but small amount of air....

when i boosted the intake system up with a compressor the air was flying out of that "small tube". it was VERY loud, and drained the system (inc. a/m fmic) of air in approx. 10 seconds. that to me seems like a considerable loss of air which the engine/turbo has to overcome. not to mention that the air has passed the afm (while on boost), but isnt making it to combustion.

Edited by gt-ahhh!

Not many ppl understand the concept of the charcoal cannister. Connected correctly there will be a pipe coming from the fuel tank to carry fuel vapour to the top of the canister. It will also have a hose or opening on the BOTTOM of it to SUCK IN fresh air to flush the fuel tank vapours out the top into the intake manifold. It will only operate at certain manifold pressure. A diaphram is fitted to the outlet to control this via the manifold vacuum.

A hose right under the car (not connected to the canister directly) will most likely meant to be connected to something though. Perhaps get a foto and we can help locate what goes where :(

Deren

PS: Another way to check for vacuum leaks is to use something like aero start or carby cleaner. Spray it around all joins and suspicious areas and listen for an increase in engine RPM. An increase means you have a leak there.

Edited by Godzilla32
Guest 40th-edition

nice to hear there are plenty of guys out there doing there own work. i do it all day avary day and tell people all the time just have a go its easy well some of it.

anyones got probs they can come to me im not dodgy and do all the jobs like they are my own cars. its cool though dont need any work flat out as is.

PS: Another way to check for vacuum leaks is to use something like aero start or carby cleaner. Spray it around all joins and suspicious areas and listen for an increase in engine RPM. An increase means you have a leak there.

well since i am in fact checking for BOOST leaks by compressing the system, it is well possible that the open hose of which i speak does not operate on vacuum. very interesting.

i tried the carby cleaner with the engine running and didnt find anything. but as soon as i compressed the system i found leaks instantly, it was much easier i thought. and has the benefit of testing the hoses/clamps under say 20psi, so you know they will hold on the road. each to his own.

thanks for your explanation of the charcoal cannister. mines blocked off now though lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...