Microtech Issue - Was Fine Now Won't Start

[The WOR57]

Hey guys, our track miraculously won't start now once I hit the button

Its a forged RB25

Microtech LT12S

GT35R

etc etc etc

Now when I turn the key it cranks and cranks forever but will not fire

There is no spark from the Splitfire coils, and the injectors do not tick

When the ignition is switched on, with CAS removed from engine, and I spin the end of the CAS - both the injectors and coilpacks tick, however when I put the CAS back in the engine - theres nothing

I am bamboozled - have replaced CAS, and Ignitor to no avail.

I am wondering if maybe tehre is a voltage drop somewhere in the electrics of the car???

Any idea or things to check would be great!

[PM-R33]

What error codes is the microtech flashing on the side of the unit?

Edited January 26, 2009 by PM-R33

[The Dan]

Check the wiring for breaks going into the CAS. Maybe by removing the unit you are bridging a broken gap in the wire.

Long shot but it's the first thing I would check.

Also make sure the drive on the camshaft is still there.

[The WOR57]

Keyway on the end of the cam is still there

Will go check Microtech diagnostics now -will google how to

Edited January 26, 2009 by The WOR57

[PM-R33]

Pretty much there are lights on the side of the ecu, pretty sure the red one flashes when there is a problem. If it flashes, check your hand controllers error log screens (screen 33 off of memory) and it will show what error options there are.

ErrorChk1 is for air temp, crank angle, home and ref

ErorrChk2 is for MAP, RPM, TPS and DC volts

See what it says from them and start from there.

[The WOR57]

OK I will have to grab me a handset controller

[Haines]

check your fuses

Mine was a stupid blown fuse (yes I did check them first)

same thing i could take the cas out turn it and there was ticking only problem was i couldnt get a spark (occasional weak spark)

but when we looked at fuses again there was a blown one

changed that and away she went

[Swiper the Fox]

OK I will have to grab me a handset controller

pretty sure blitzxtr has one for sale

[The WOR57]

I have a handset controller but the screen died months ago - it occassionally shows some info - i have used another controller on the ECU and it works fine so I guess my controller is only good as a paperweight now

[The WOR57]

check your fuses

Mine was a stupid blown fuse (yes I did check them first)

same thing i could take the cas out turn it and there was ticking only problem was i couldnt get a spark (occasional weak spark)

but when we looked at fuses again there was a blown one

changed that and away she went

I checked all the fuses like 10 times - theres only 5 in the cabin for the whole car

[PHaT MR30]

Highly unlikely, but I had an issue with mine recently where the green wire for the fuel pump relay wasn't working, I ended up wiring the relay straight to earth, till I can either get it fixed or find a better solution.

[The WOR57]

Fuel pumps prime fine and its getting no spark either - first guesses I had were CAS and Ignitor - but both resulted in no change

[PHaT MR30]

check the earth on the ignitor then, the wire may have become brittle and broken, happened to mine also.

[The WOR57]

Auto Sparky who re-wired teh whole car is coming out tonight to look at it - jus seems weird that teh CAS when spun by hand makes the coilpacks emit spark and injectors tick - which would make me think the ignitor is fine - however once u try and crank the car, the CAS does nothing. I have watched cranked engine with no CAS fitted and the end of the cam definitely spins

Edited January 26, 2009 by The WOR57

[Haines]

the fuse that was blown was in my engine bay

[The WOR57]

no fuses in the engine bay - car is completely rewired with a handful of fuses only in the cabin

[SATO GTS]

As the WOR57 stated is the drive inside the cam engaging into the cas locater?

Check for bad electrical contacts if you sad that when you remove the cas it triggers the inj's then it sound like bad conecction

[Guilt-Toy]

check your fuses.. there is sometimes a fuse in the wiring harness and it can blow. put a fuse in 5amp bigger if it is.

[The WOR57]

As the WOR57 stated is the drive inside the cam engaging into the cas locater?

Check for bad electrical contacts if you sad that when you remove the cas it triggers the inj's then it sound like bad conecction

the keyway in the end of the cam spins, which in turn I would assume spins the end of the CAS.

[The WOR57]

CAS only gives off injector pulse and spark sometimes when spun

Auto Electrician reckons the Microleb is f**ked