Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Not sure if this has been covered beofre as my Forum search option seems to be malfunctioning.

My Air Bag service light has come on and is a bit annoying .

Does anyone know how to get rid of this?

Thank you

Lee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254301-2002-v35-air-bag-light/
Share on other sites

Before you take it to Nissan, try the below method.

Turn the key to the on position and watch the airbag light. It should stay solid for 5-7 secs, and then turn off, and then start to flash.

To reset the light, you must turn the key to on, watch the airbag light stay solid for 5-7 secs and as soon as the airbag light turns off, turn the key to the off position (you have to turn the key to off before the airbag light starts to flash, or you must start over). You need to repeat this 5 times. Try to start the car, and hopefully the light will be reset

Had same problem last month...above fixed it. No more flashing airbag light.

Before you take it to Nissan, try the below method.

Turn the key to the on position and watch the airbag light. It should stay solid for 5-7 secs, and then turn off, and then start to flash.

To reset the light, you must turn the key to on, watch the airbag light stay solid for 5-7 secs and as soon as the airbag light turns off, turn the key to the off position (you have to turn the key to off before the airbag light starts to flash, or you must start over). You need to repeat this 5 times. Try to start the car, and hopefully the light will be reset

Had same problem last month...above fixed it. No more flashing airbag light.

hey Leev 35?...tell us if this shit works....okay? :)

take it to nissan - get them to reset it. that will also tell you what is wrong.

usual thing is seatbelt and seat issues.

I took mine to Nissan on one occasion and it was not a good experience! Not only did they give the wrong answer to the problem but they also snapped my cam cover in half! They had no clue whatsoever.

I took mine to Nissan on one occasion and it was not a good experience! Not only did they give the wrong answer to the problem but they also snapped my cam cover in half! They had no clue whatsoever.

and I bet they still wanted $140,500.00 (excl GST) !!

Hi Guys,

This reset worked a charm:

"Turn the key to the on position and watch the airbag light. It should stay solid for 5-7 secs, and then turn off, and then start to flash.

To reset the light, you must turn the key to on, watch the airbag light stay solid for 5-7 secs and as soon as the airbag light turns off, turn the key to the off position (you have to turn the key to off before the airbag light starts to flash, or you must start over). You need to repeat this 5 times. Try to start the car, and hopefully the light will be reset"

No more Air Bag flashing light or Nav screen warning!!

Cheers

Lee

Hi Guys,

This reset worked a charm:

"Turn the key to the on position and watch the airbag light. It should stay solid for 5-7 secs, and then turn off, and then start to flash.

To reset the light, you must turn the key to on, watch the airbag light stay solid for 5-7 secs and as soon as the airbag light turns off, turn the key to the off position (you have to turn the key to off before the airbag light starts to flash, or you must start over). You need to repeat this 5 times. Try to start the car, and hopefully the light will be reset"

No more Air Bag flashing light or Nav screen warning!!

Cheers

Lee

Heeey!...you focker...you just ripped Nissan off......bowa 150,000.00 buh!

Excellent, this reset works!

Thanks to poster. How did you figure this out anyway?

My take on the origin of the warning light was due to seat belts being replaced during the compliance process.

Original info came from g35driver.com which hosts a wealth of information pertaining to our cars a lot which is similar and useful.

Glad it worked.

Original info came from g35driver.com which hosts a wealth of information pertaining to our cars a lot which is similar and useful.

Glad it worked.

Nismo...sincerely, it is the people like yourself that make these forums actually work, enjoyable, edumacational and give owners the confidence to help 'master' their vehicles. ......well done big fella!

If you or I was a shiela, I'd go down on you.

Nismo...sincerely, it is the people like yourself that make these forums actually work, enjoyable, edumacational and give owners the confidence to help 'master' their vehicles. ......well done big fella!

If you or I was a shiela, I'd go down on you.

LOL! Too much info!! Maybe I am a shiela...or are you?? I've got a V SPOT...what have u got??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...