Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have an R32 GTR with twin plate clutch (ogura.)

Now it has been fine but recently I noticed that once the car has warmed up a bit (the problem does not occur at all when cold),

I hear a grinding sound as I release the clutch. It is like something isn't disengaging properly or there is some sort of resistance, it sounds like metal friction, a low grinding sound. This is not the normal twin plate rattle which I hear when i simply press the clutch pedal.

Oh also it only really happens in 1st and 2nd, after it happens, it can be harder than usual to take the car out of 1st gear, sometimes 1st gear is stuck for a second or 2.

Please help.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255029-twin-plate-clutch-weird-grinding/
Share on other sites

might have to pull it out and see. it may have a broken diaphram spring... or nothing at all. but the fact its not disengaging when hot is an issue..

your clutch fluid is ok? if you can see if there is any freeplay on the clutch fork. should be somewhere in the front half of the hole in the gearbox and not be hard up against slave cylinder.

might have to pull it out and see. it may have a broken diaphram spring... or nothing at all. but the fact its not disengaging when hot is an issue..

your clutch fluid is ok? if you can see if there is any freeplay on the clutch fork. should be somewhere in the front half of the hole in the gearbox and not be hard up against slave cylinder.

+1

So is it still dis-engaging OK??

In some cases, not many though it could be a spring has come away from one of the Clutch Discs but I highly doubt it because otherwise it wouldn't just be 1st or 2nd... :D

May need to pull it out & have a look incase you're actually doing more damage ;)

+1

So is it still dis-engaging OK??

In some cases, not many though it could be a spring has come away from one of the Clutch Discs but I highly doubt it because otherwise it wouldn't just be 1st or 2nd... :sick:

May need to pull it out & have a look incase you're actually doing more damage :(

Yeah it still disengages fine, it just seems hesitant from a standing start. It is a grind/rattle. Also I've noticed, the revs tend to be slightly higher than usual when this happens, it usually idles on around 1000, but it hovers at 1100-1200 when the problem occurs.

If the car is moving and I put it in 1st/2nd, it is absolutely fine.

However, once hot, standing starts are a nightmare (and its not coz im noob and can't drive a twin plate, it was fine until recently.)

i had the EXACT same problem with my exedy twinny about a month ago. took it back to the mechanic as it was under warrenty, and found that the spigot/release bearing was gone. moisture had gotten into it.

it almost sounded like a crunching gearbox.

is it a new clutch?

Edited by r33cruiser
i had the EXACT same problem with my exedy twinny about a month ago. took it back to the mechanic as it was under warrenty, and found that the spigot/release bearing was gone. moisture had gotten into it.

it almost sounded like a crunching gearbox.

is it a new clutch?

It has only done around 1500kms, going to have to get it looked at I guess.

Should I drive the car or should I play it safe?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...