Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Well i got it imported picked it up about 3 weeks ago just got exhaust, pod, front mount, running stock boost as far as i know. This is how it got through the pits to. This week the guy that has worked on all my cars wants to play with it abit also the boost controlla is going in as well. Getting lowered, tint, boost guage and few other things should be nice. Thanks for all your help hope to meet some of ya's soon.

Well i got it imported picked it up about 3 weeks ago just got exhaust, pod, front mount, running stock boost as far as i know. This is how it got through the pits to. This week the guy that has worked on all my cars wants to play with it abit also the boost controlla is going in as well. Getting lowered, tint, boost guage and few other things should be nice. Thanks for all your help hope to meet some of ya's soon.

One thing I will add, my car has been popping heaps more flames over the last week than usual... perhaps the heat is affecting it, but i blew some doozies this evening

-D

i think its time for a lap of the block :sick:

think my zorst is too full of carbon... more likely to blow a nice black cloud than a nice blue flame

im gonna have to invest in a decent dual pipe system, individual pipe with hiflow cat from each turbo...

2x turbo -> dump pipe -> hiflow cat -> resonator -> junBL muffler

should sound decent methinks. can use smaller piping if theyre parallel so that means i got more ground clearance

-D

i think i was the master of flames and pops and BANGS wen my bee-r was on

and sum people would agreez lol

oh yeh its nathan aka jdm032 aka jet lag aka screamer boy aka smart ass aka the awesomeness aka that kid aka the annoying one lol

HI

(dont ban me my jdm account stopped working and wouldnt let me post

but back on topic, ur car will be running rich or timing may be out by a degree or two, also if your cat is gutted and ur exhaust system is fairly simple then it will

i had a decent custom made jap system on mine and i was getting flames crawling up the bumper onto the boot at 100 kmph, looked soooo good, and it doesnt hurt to burn off extra fuel lol

*edit* a metre, is that all, come on u can do better then that, if you pick up in first at a slow but steady rate to 7 then to 6 in second and let it idle down, touch the accelerator, and i mean just touch it once to only slighty open the throttle you should get flames coming out for easy double that length and for a few seconds, (yes it does work, i have tried it and succeded lol)

Edited by Dori-Dori
Bee*R ftmfw

gotta get me one of those.

if i had one i would drive everywhere in 1st on the limiter

sorry. bee'r rev limiters are f**king gay

there is nothing 'cool' about making bangs from detonating petrol. if you want some bang, i'll chuck two pieces of c4 in a directional shaped charge around the main support strut of your house, facing each other, and blow the f**ker down with under a kilo of plastique.

bangs for the sake of a highly tuned, hi octane engine are hot because of the engineering and tweaking that goes behind it.

any daft fool can tune an ecu to spit fuel into the exhaust manifold. and you always used to chuck that shit around residential areas. as someone whos been shot at before, i really dont see the humor in that.

one day son, we are going to meet.

-D

sorry. bee'r rev limiters are f**king gay

there is nothing 'cool' about making bangs from detonating petrol. if you want some bang, i'll chuck two pieces of c4 in a directional shaped charge around the main support strut of your house, facing each other, and blow the f**ker down with under a kilo of plastique.

bangs for the sake of a highly tuned, hi octane engine are hot because of the engineering and tweaking that goes behind it.

any daft fool can tune an ecu to spit fuel into the exhaust manifold. and you always used to chuck that shit around residential areas. as someone whos been shot at before, i really dont see the humor in that.

one day son, we are going to meet.

-D

awesome i look forward to it, but dont sit behind me >_<

and i really dont care, i am me, i do wat i want, i do it where i want

and btw, dohmar, a bee-r is functional. i had it hooked up for anti lag as well as fun, its a full proper launch control and anti lag built by one of the better jap tuning companies called well Bee-R

so before u go saying is not functional, do some home work and learn bout things.

and bezender if you get one, i can hook it up in a flash, i should be getting mine installed again soon, so if ya need tips or help pm me...

usually im all about function over form... but i like em.

I'd be happy to burn my petrol at the hands of a bee*r limiter. i reckon it would be good fun >_<

Cool. Remind yourself to not get pissed off when I tie a rope of firecrackers around your postbox at 4am. Or chuck a block of thermite on your rolla. Yeah. you'd think twice about burnination after that shit

-D

Cool. Remind yourself to not get pissed off when I tie a rope of firecrackers around your postbox at 4am. Or chuck a block of thermite on your rolla. Yeah. you'd think twice about burnination after that shit

-D

A screamer is for a racing application. Its bullshit to compare apples and oranges. Its fair enough on a racetrack, where you actually DO hit those 8000rpm. When ur in the streets, if u hit 8000 rpm you're basically a prime dickhead.

What sort of cockhead dumps fuel at night in a residential area? I'd say you, and you alone. You've f**ked with kellies cruises enough, disregarded her guidelines, and for what? To prove that ur dick is smaller than what an electron microscope can pick up? You're a tool. You shit on everyone who owns a skyline. Get a clue before someone imprints it on your skull with a piece of 2x4.

Call me out Nathan. You've been dissed before by more than a few on these boards. When will you get the hint? Heros are zeros.

You know where to find me.

-Dohmar

haha nice. screamers can be cool, but not exactly neighborhood friendly >_<

can hear my mates rx4 from so far away its not funny when its on boost...

my neighbors still like me atm, id like to keep it that way

all my neighbours hate me and i got a 3 cops living within a 5 minute walk, but they leave me and my mates alone. they dont like us but they dont give us grief and we dont disturb them

plus my car sits between a house and a shed and metal fence, straight pipes very loud lol, especially when reving and playing with afr maps haha

all my neighbours hate me and i got a 3 cops living within a 5 minute walk, but they leave me and my mates alone. they dont like us but they dont give us grief and we dont disturb them

plus my car sits between a house and a shed and metal fence, straight pipes very loud lol, especially when reving and playing with afr maps haha

How wonderful for you. One day, one of those benign neighbours you love to torment will leave a kilogram of thermite upon your hood and burn a hole the size of an orange right thru ur engine block.

Oh hey and Im not saying I did it. I just would do it.

-D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...