Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Turbos were going bad on my R32 GTR so I replaced them with stock R33 turbos. The very first time I started it the hicas light came on and the steering was heavy.

So I pulled back into the garage thinking that I didn't tighten up the belt or the fluid level was low. After popping the bonnet and poking around a little I couldn't find anything wrong. Belt is new. Fluid looks clean and is full. Pump looks fine. No leaks. So I took the car out hoping that it just clear up on its own. No change after 10-20 km of driving.

I live in the USA and it's difficult to source new RB parts. I really don't want to replace the pump unless I know it's bad. Is there anything else I can check before spending money on a new pump?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255196-power-steering-failure/
Share on other sites

well mate it all comes back to basic common sence.... was the pump working b4 u changed the turbos.... do the turbos have nethin to do with power steering. obviously sumthing uve missed here cuz ps pumps dont just shit emselves sitting still

Edited by skylinekid
is the passenger side wheel speed sensor plugged in...its down near where you were working. This item not plugged in will disable the hicas.

The connector right in front of the ABS unit? Blue wires? Looks good... Pulled it apart and put it back together just to make sure.

well mate it all comes back to basic common sence.... was the pump working b4 u changed the turbos.... do the turbos have nethin to do with power steering. obviously sumthing uve missed here cuz ps pumps dont just shit emselves sitting still

I'm just banging my head on the wall trying to figure out what I broke while I was swapping turbos. :P

Edited by DanShirts
The connector right in front of the ABS unit? Blue wires? Looks good... Pulled it apart and put it back together just to make sure.

I'm just banging my head on the wall trying to figure out what I broke while I was swapping turbos. :P

its the small one that goes through the inner guard near the brake line to the passenger side front brakes. Its lower than the ABS down near the chassis rail

is it possible to do a diagnostics check...

Yes it is, and it's the first thing to do before trying to 'guess' where the problem lies.

DanShirts - suggest doing a search on these forums for 'HICAS diagnostics' as I'm sure someone will have posted the procedure + error codes previously.

Also suggest you get a hold of a workshop manual as all this is covered (I'm sure it's available for download from somewhere.......)

Yes it is, and it's the first thing to do before trying to 'guess' where the problem lies.

DanShirts - suggest doing a search on these forums for 'HICAS diagnostics' as I'm sure someone will have posted the procedure + error codes previously.

Also suggest you get a hold of a workshop manual as all this is covered (I'm sure it's available for download from somewhere.......)

I found the post about hicas diagnostic, but the car wont go into diag mode. (?) I must have tried 6 or 7 times. I will try again tomorrow when I have more time.

  • 2 weeks later...
Is there another way I can get the codes?

No, you'll just have to keep trying. If you hadn't touched the steering wheel, etc as part of the other work, it seems unlikely that would be the problem, BUT it might be possible. Before randomly swapping parts tho, I'd be going through every connector + checking all hoses and pipes, as it seems that your problem is related to the turbo install (particularly if everything was fine beforehand, apart from the turbo's themselves).

One of the relays in the boot is having trouble. It clicks about once every 30 seconds. It's very quiet and I wouldn't have noticed it if didn't get into the boot when the car was running.

Part number 25230-05U00. Fast calls it is the "Anti Skid Relay". I'm pretty confident that this relay (or the wiring or whatever it's connected to) is the problem. I will post again when I have more information.

Edited by DanShirts

Got it fixed. The relay connector was bad, but that wasn't the problem. The 12v wire that goes to the steering angle sensor had a break right next to the connector. Patched and running strong!

Thanks for all the help!

Edited by DanShirts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HyperGear. Just get a high flow of the stocker. Good, reliable, and should bolt on. Yes it will want things like a retune once done, so you need to factor this in to your spend too.
    • Hi. Iam looking for some "cheaper" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO. I do not want "big" power just better reliability than the stock turbo which is "fot now" good but is old and i do not think it has "easy" life. One the Skyline here running some "temu" china Turbo but i dont trust those... Thanks!  
    • Hi guys, Making some space/cleaning up. A whole heap of random OEM R33 GTR parts and other random bits and bobs. I will update this thread as I go. Parts are located in Moorebank NSW 2170. Pickup preferred but will post at buyers expense. Prices are negotiable. If they don’t sell it will go in the bin. Item 1: BOV return pipe. $40 Item 2: RB26 cam gears. $20 Item 3: R33 GTR torque split, oil temp, boost centre gauge. $100 Item 4: RB26 fuel rail x 2. $20 each Item 5: RB26 Recirc valves. $50 Item 6: OEM upper front arms. $20 Item 7: Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-140 1 quart/946 ml x 5. $50 each or 5 for $200. Item 8: OS Giken 80w-250 diff oil 1 litre. $25 Item 9 Eibach springs. ers-11-140-60-0140. $100 https://www.streetfx.com.au/eib140-60-0060-eibach-ers-140mm-length-x-60mm-id-coil-over-spring?_ga_campaignid=22235933977&_ga_adgroupid=180146800292&_ga_keyword=&_ga_device=m&_ga_target=pla-295238231169&_ga_locint=&_ga_locphy=9071723&_ga_matchtype=&_ga_network=g&_ga_device=m&_ga_placement=&_gcl_id=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22235933977&gbraid=0AAAAADPiTbo1xAuvnjIWWYnezivf-BUSY&gclid=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE    
    • That's kind of what I was getting at saying you'd be here soon regarding length etc being able to add additional restriction.  My assumption (possible donkeys of you and mption) is that the length of hose to an oil cooler, and back, isn't going to be that huge of a loss. Typically you're talking about 1.5m of total length. And so far everyone in our world hasn't had issues with oil not being able to get to a cooler and back, it's more been, how the heck do we get the oil out of the head and back down to the bottom? I'd nearly hazard a guess the biggest issue people have with oil cooling and oil supply, is being able to get the heat out at the cooler itself (not enough air flow, too small of a cooler etc) Also, when people mount them wrong and make really awesome air traps so they've dramatically diminished the cooling capacity.
    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
×
×
  • Create New...