Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Turbos were going bad on my R32 GTR so I replaced them with stock R33 turbos. The very first time I started it the hicas light came on and the steering was heavy.

So I pulled back into the garage thinking that I didn't tighten up the belt or the fluid level was low. After popping the bonnet and poking around a little I couldn't find anything wrong. Belt is new. Fluid looks clean and is full. Pump looks fine. No leaks. So I took the car out hoping that it just clear up on its own. No change after 10-20 km of driving.

I live in the USA and it's difficult to source new RB parts. I really don't want to replace the pump unless I know it's bad. Is there anything else I can check before spending money on a new pump?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255196-power-steering-failure/
Share on other sites

well mate it all comes back to basic common sence.... was the pump working b4 u changed the turbos.... do the turbos have nethin to do with power steering. obviously sumthing uve missed here cuz ps pumps dont just shit emselves sitting still

Edited by skylinekid
is the passenger side wheel speed sensor plugged in...its down near where you were working. This item not plugged in will disable the hicas.

The connector right in front of the ABS unit? Blue wires? Looks good... Pulled it apart and put it back together just to make sure.

well mate it all comes back to basic common sence.... was the pump working b4 u changed the turbos.... do the turbos have nethin to do with power steering. obviously sumthing uve missed here cuz ps pumps dont just shit emselves sitting still

I'm just banging my head on the wall trying to figure out what I broke while I was swapping turbos. :P

Edited by DanShirts
The connector right in front of the ABS unit? Blue wires? Looks good... Pulled it apart and put it back together just to make sure.

I'm just banging my head on the wall trying to figure out what I broke while I was swapping turbos. :P

its the small one that goes through the inner guard near the brake line to the passenger side front brakes. Its lower than the ABS down near the chassis rail

is it possible to do a diagnostics check...

Yes it is, and it's the first thing to do before trying to 'guess' where the problem lies.

DanShirts - suggest doing a search on these forums for 'HICAS diagnostics' as I'm sure someone will have posted the procedure + error codes previously.

Also suggest you get a hold of a workshop manual as all this is covered (I'm sure it's available for download from somewhere.......)

Yes it is, and it's the first thing to do before trying to 'guess' where the problem lies.

DanShirts - suggest doing a search on these forums for 'HICAS diagnostics' as I'm sure someone will have posted the procedure + error codes previously.

Also suggest you get a hold of a workshop manual as all this is covered (I'm sure it's available for download from somewhere.......)

I found the post about hicas diagnostic, but the car wont go into diag mode. (?) I must have tried 6 or 7 times. I will try again tomorrow when I have more time.

  • 2 weeks later...
Is there another way I can get the codes?

No, you'll just have to keep trying. If you hadn't touched the steering wheel, etc as part of the other work, it seems unlikely that would be the problem, BUT it might be possible. Before randomly swapping parts tho, I'd be going through every connector + checking all hoses and pipes, as it seems that your problem is related to the turbo install (particularly if everything was fine beforehand, apart from the turbo's themselves).

One of the relays in the boot is having trouble. It clicks about once every 30 seconds. It's very quiet and I wouldn't have noticed it if didn't get into the boot when the car was running.

Part number 25230-05U00. Fast calls it is the "Anti Skid Relay". I'm pretty confident that this relay (or the wiring or whatever it's connected to) is the problem. I will post again when I have more information.

Edited by DanShirts

Got it fixed. The relay connector was bad, but that wasn't the problem. The 12v wire that goes to the steering angle sensor had a break right next to the connector. Patched and running strong!

Thanks for all the help!

Edited by DanShirts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...