Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just thought I'd pop these up, for your perusal.

Just the doors were done, rest is factory.

Done by Instant Screens, cnr Warrigul and Keys...(Always had my cars done here)

Soz about the pic quality...camera phone!....actual quality appears pristine.

Front and rear bumpers get re-sprayed next week...woohoo!....I want them perfect. I'm fussy.

post-9261-1233649493_thumb.jpg

post-9261-1233649548_thumb.jpg

post-9261-1233649598_thumb.jpg

post-9261-1233649641_thumb.jpg

post-9261-1233649703_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255418-my-v-line-tinted/
Share on other sites

looks good. just as well you didnt do teh back. people that tint the rear windows of cars like this complain of crap radio reception. ( metalised tint halves the reception plastic film does not.)

Thanks mate,

The reception thing?... it makes good sense....so the standard tint that is already on there is plastic Chris..?

I get great reception, so I guess that rear black window is plastic?

Looks good superspit, i opted for 15% black all round and it turns out just fine - didn't affect the reception at all :D

In saying that, im probably going for a silver/neutral tint as soon as i can find someone who can do it.

Anyone in Sydney? :(

Looks good superspit, i opted for 15% black all round and it turns out just fine - didn't affect the reception at all :D

In saying that, im probably going for a silver/neutral tint as soon as i can find someone who can do it.

Anyone in Sydney? :(

yea...i want to know too~

Looks good superspit, i opted for 15% black all round and it turns out just fine - didn't affect the reception at all :D

In saying that, im probably going for a silver/neutral tint as soon as i can find someone who can do it.

Anyone in Sydney? :(

Thanx G33.....

On the job invoice mine is 'rated' @ 35%..........mmmm.

It's a little lighter (in reality) to the rear and privacy glass.

To avoid poor/low quality radio reception, Nissan would have had to (as Chris suggested) use a tint that contained no metal in it's makeup..for the rear glass.

Maybe your 'rear window' tint is not a 'metalized' version? ....I just don't know enough about tinting materials.

Yes..I reckon a silver tint finish on the glass would look shit-hot!!.....Hope you get it so I can see it!!

Cheers.

Thanx G33.....

On the job invoice mine is 'rated' @ 35%..........mmmm.

It's a little lighter (in reality) to the rear and privacy glass.

To avoid poor/low quality radio reception, Nissan would have had to (as Chris suggested) use a tint that contained no metal in it's makeup..for the rear glass.

Maybe your 'rear window' tint is not a 'metalized' version? ....I just don't know enough about tinting materials.

Yes..I reckon a silver tint finish on the glass would look shit-hot!!.....Hope you get it so I can see it!!

Cheers.

Looks good!

So you only did the doors, does that mean the rear side glass is still standard 'privacy' glass. Correct?

If that is the case it seems to match really well.

Just for the record, most Tint films are Metal based as this offers more life... Plastic films degrade quicker than the Metal Film.

Although the metal types reduce the effectiveness of Ultrasonic alarm use and radio reception..

Looks good!

So you only did the doors, does that mean the rear side glass is still standard 'privacy' glass. Correct?

If that is the case it seems to match really well.

Just for the record, most Tint films are Metal based as this offers more life... Plastic films degrade quicker than the Metal Film.

Although the metal types reduce the effectiveness of Ultrasonic alarm use and radio reception..

Thanks mate!

Yes, just did the doors....everything else was factory; privacy glass and rear screen.....(I thought all 35's were like that??)

It does make the windows look quite dark there in the workshop doesn't it!?

iv wondered about the privacy glass, can we get defected for it? i mean its pretty dark! i would be keen to do the windows as well but dont want to draw too much attention from the boys in blue

mmm...it's a good point...none of us want anything but 'admiring' type attention, from the police.

But we drive V35's, and if we drive them well and within the legal road specs, with a good attitude we should see no issues.

But....if we drove the 32,33,34's....mmmmm...well now......that seems to be a different story, now doesn't it?

"G'day driver, would you mind poppin the hood....mmmm...yes.....yes.......very well hidden turbo's on these things....what's the retail on these?"

When you consider most of the 'private' Mobile Speed Camera Cars in Victoria are heavily tinted, I'd see the bas*ards in court.

They are never legal.

geeeesh guys...all this talk of 'legalities' is scarin the shit outa me....shall I go rip it off?

I got a really light reflective tint for my rears and reception is fine, and got the fronts tinted which all matches up great!

Also added the rear light overlays purchased from Blue_Batmobile (WWW.BLUEBATMOBILE.NET) via the G35Driver site in the states, if your tinter is not experienced with these then not a good idea to let them put them on. The material is a lot softer than normal tint and needs to be placed carefully and shaped to the lights. Mine turned out ok, a few permanent bubbles but nothing to complain about, I'll post up pics soon.

Edited by Pulp
geeeesh guys...all this talk of 'legalities' is scarin the shit outa me....shall I go rip it off?

You can get away with illegal tint if you are lucky but God forbid, if you were ever involved in an accident, its just another reason for your insurer to knock you back.

Well if uncle Kevin finaly hooks me up with some cash for a change. I might do my bit for the local economy and get my front windows done. What tint did you use and its %, is it the same darkness as the back windows?

Well if uncle Kevin finaly hooks me up with some cash for a change. I might do my bit for the local economy and get my front windows done. What tint did you use and its %, is it the same darkness as the back windows?

Hi...

the invoice says 35 pooooshent!.....It looks almost the same as the factory stuff....(or the stuff that's already there..lol), but it is definitely lighter...

As far as what it is......its' tint!....I no know!!!!!!!I yust pay, he gip me the car beck.

  • 1 year later...

Hi All,

I want to get my 300GT sedan windows tinted shortly. Both places I've been suggest 'carbon / non metallized' tint for the rear windscreen , one however suggests it for all windows, just curious what you all do?

Reception is bad enough with these band expanders, so I don't want to make it worse at all, but seems like doing all windws in non metallized film mya be just a waste of money??

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...