Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fuel efficiency is never Nissan's strength, that's why fuel-conscious people end up buying Hondas.

My bro moved from Honda Civic which uses around 6-7l/100km to Accord Euro and he complaint it's using too much petrol at around 9l/100km

Go figure. Too much or too little is subjective.

danny I hope you've actually tested a few V35 e.g. dealer test drive before actually buying one... if you can find one at a good price why not, especially in these times where A$ just only hovering around 50 to the Yen, it will be quite expensive exercise to import one from Japan...

If you wanna use the dvd/satnav you need to piggy back an aftermarket system on to the factory one. can't do anything on the factory one it will always be there sitting 'useless'. ask Chris Rogers but he's in Brisbane, maybe he knows someone good in Melb or maybe he want to organise another trip down here... if you're willing to bear the airline cost.

Same story with TV tuner. Jap TV won't work here. Piggy back it with aftermarket unit. You get lotsa remote in the car :-) might as well get a remote tray/organiser they sell in furniture stores and double side taped them to the dash.

I filled up petrol yesterday, 65ltr, maybe about 5km away from home. Travelled around 45km today to work and back. So I've used about 50km. my trip computer says I've got another 490km left to go so potentially it is 540km per tank of 65ltr plus a few more (maybe 5-10ltr) in my tank before I fill up - I may have 70 or 75ltr tank capacity.

but by experience I could probably get 20-30km extra than what the trip computer says.

That would make my average fuel consumption for daily work commuting around 560km-ish with around 65-70ltr so it works out about 11.5 to 12.5ltr /100km

tiptronic is effortless in city traffic. keep it in normal mode and it shifts up nicely (unless you got one with dodgy transmission), turn the power mode on and it will hold the gear longer and shift up a bit responsively. not bad for a quick spin. never driven the manual version but I reckon the shift action will be similar to 350Z as they should be using the same gearbox. got a friend with manual 350Z ?

  • 4 weeks later...

Danny, hope you come to your senses and buy one of these great cars. If not mucked around with--they are very reliable. Servicing is cheap would be cheaper than Lexus-Mines got 38K klms. now and mechanic says still have anoth 10 before I even look at brakes.

Consumption is around 9klm(11/100) a litre on busy syd roads or 15klm(<7/100),/ highways. I cant work out how people think toyotas or hondas are better. My brothers 3.5 ltre Aurion albeit auto-does not get this. & Auto CRV Honda 2.4only slightly better.Mines manual but from all I hear the auto is very little diff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...