Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've got a black Series 2 R33 skyline up for wrecking... It's been hit in the right front qtr...so radiator, condensor, front bar, front right qtr panel, rad support are gone...but mostly everything else is up for grabs...

If your after anything just pm me cheers...

Engine Bay

Rb25det 116xxxkms with loom and ecu (remapped by dr drift) & Splitfire coil packs - $2400ono

post-36648-1233733820_thumb.jpg

S2 Rb25 turbo with actuator, good cond, minimal shaft play. Didn't blow any smoke - $250

S2 AFM (pink sticker)- $90

R33 aircon compressor pump - $100

R33 power steering pump - $100

R33 alternator - $80

Fuse box lid - $20

Stock airbox & snorkel + filter - $75

Exterior

Gold 18" x 8.5 (+15 offset) Gravity Gullframes with tyres (90% tread on 2 tyres), one wheel has gutter rash - $1200

Passenger Side Headlight - $150

Driver side Door - $180

Passenger Door - $180

Boot Lid - $200

Stock Rear Bar - $90

S2 Spoiler - $50

Nismo Side Indicators - $50

Interior

Instrument cluster, white face $150

Dash surround (with clock, hazard switch etc) - $80

Gear stick surround - $40

Ashtray - $20

Glovebox - $40

Steering column surround plastics - $25

S2 dash pad (no passenger airbag & panel) - $40

Centre console - $50

R34 Front seats - $150 (to fit r33)

R34 Rear seats - $100 (fits both r33 and r34)

R33 S2 Front seats (drivers side has a tear in the usual spot) - $80

R33 S2 Rear seats, good condition - $40

Seatbelts, full set - $80 (will seperate)

Ignition barrel + door barrels + key - $100

other parts...

Cat Back 2.5" to 4" tip - $150

Dump pipe - $50

2.5" Front Pipe - $100

Hybrid Front Mount Intercooler - $200

Pm me for any other parts cheers...

post-36648-1233734526_thumb.jpg

post-36648-1233735497_thumb.jpg

intrested in turbo and actuator.

located in melb

hey mate...

i'm after a working diff if you'll sell??

PM with a price. i can come pick up (assuming from plates that you're in melb somewhere)

cheers

hey bud just a question i heard the R34 seats wont fit into the R32 or R33 skylines due to floorpan construction. competely different, did u get rails made cause im trying to find some for my R32

i know the R33 rail is the same as the R32 :down: lol id grab yours if i could lol

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey mate,

Tryed to PM but you box full. Lots of messegaes ehhh? Please let me know if you still have the greabox. I am after a gearbox S2.

Cheers,

Eugen

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...