Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The turbo is not a T3 it is a T28

The difference between series 1 and 2 turbos is series 2 have a plastic wheel, and series 1 have a ceramic wheel (i thing thats the exhaust wheel).

The standard cooler are CRAP

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2561-r33-turbo-size/#findComment-46635
Share on other sites

DOCTOR is correct.

The skyline turbo's (SKYLINE GTST anyway.. not the GTR) is a T3.

As for the wheels inside the turbo.

R32 GTST = T3, Steel blades on inlet, Ceramic blades on exhaust

R33 GTST series 1 = T3, Steel blades on inlet, Ceramic blades on exhaust.

R33 GTST series 2 = T3, Plastic blades on inlet, Ceramic blades on exhaust.

GTR's use 2 T28's.. don't know about the specs of the blades of the turbo.

Even though the R32 and R33 uses a T3 turbo housing the specs of the blades and the AR is different. You can usually make more power out of the T3 from the R33 engines..

Also, a lot of people don't like the idea of having a plastic wheel on the inlet side of the turbo as it is on the series 2 R33's.

The intercooler on the R33 is pretty useless if you start modifying.

I would say that once you do exhaust and filter on the R33's (or R32's for that matter), the intercooler is going to be on it's limit. And in Summer you are going to suffer a bit.

Did I miss anything?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2561-r33-turbo-size/#findComment-46677
Share on other sites

Guest Impul 25T

GTR's use T25's, except for the 34, the 400R and N1's.

Are you sure the turbo's are T3's? Wouldn't make for much of an upgrade putting a T3 on then would it? And I know of 25t's that have done this.

Also, the spec2 turbo is stronger by virtue of the compressor being bonded to the shaft, not fitted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2561-r33-turbo-size/#findComment-46795
Share on other sites

There are different versions of T3's

Take the T3 from a VL turbo commodore for instance.. It can support more power than the T3 stuck to the RB20DET.

Or the T3 from the Ford Sierra's...

T3 only refers to the turbo housing.. it could have different blades on the inlet and exhaust side to produce more power.

So getting a T3 from a different car and having it on the RB25DET COULD be worth while.

Like alot of people do the upgrade of getting the T3 off the nissan VG30DET (old 300zx with the single turbo) and puting it on the RB20DET cause THAT T3 flows much better than the T3 on the Stock RB20DET.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2561-r33-turbo-size/#findComment-47251
Share on other sites

Guest Impul 25T
Originally posted by Doctor

Thats why people always go the T3/4 or the TO4.  

If they werent T3 they would be an upgrade for a silvia etc but they are totally different and dont fit.

Doc

That could have something to do with the flange patterns being different.

Do you mean that the only turbo's that RB25 and RB20's can have, has to have a T3 exhaust?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2561-r33-turbo-size/#findComment-48880
Share on other sites

Not at all, I've got a larger turbo than that... If you do decide to go larger, you just have to look at fabricating a new exhaust manifold, or have an adapter plate made so that you can fit the new manifold flange.

You'll also find that the dump and intake sides are both different too, so new piping will probably need to be made up on either side.

matt

Originally posted by Impul 25T

Do you mean that the only turbo's that RB25 and RB20's can have, has to have a T3 exhaust?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2561-r33-turbo-size/#findComment-48888
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...