Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you have a problem with your MFD LCD screen (busted scan lines, bad backlight, bad pixels),

then replace it with this fresh new one. I've done it. I can verify that replacing it with this panel

works great. Requires removal of MFD, and careful dis-assembly of MFD, connect two ribbon cables,

and re-assembly. Takes just 10 minutes and a screwdriver.

$200 plus $9.99 shipping bubble wrapped in anti-static foam.

post-51561-1234173000_thumb.jpg

post-51561-1234173013_thumb.jpg

Edited by moneypit
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256292-r34-mfd-replacement-screen/
Share on other sites

If you have a problem with your MFD LCD screen (busted scan lines, bad backlight, bad pixels),

then replace it with this fresh new one. I've done it. I can verify that replacing it with this panel

works great. Requires removal of MFD, and careful dis-assembly of MFD, connect two ribbon cables,

and re-assembly. Takes just 10 minutes and a screwdriver.

$200 plus $9.99 shipping bubble wrapped in anti-static foam.

so is this genuine nissan one or after market?

cheers.

so is this genuine nissan one or after market?

cheers.

As far as I know nissan do not sell the screen. They sell the entire MFD for mucho $$$s only.

the MFD is plastic surround and cage and buttons, the MFD circuit board with its various sensor inputs

and the toshiba screen.. this is just the screen.

a little bit off topic but around how much would the real mfd cost approx?

I see a second hand one in pretty poor shape listed at 90,000 yen about to close.

so after fees and expenses that is pretty close to $2000 aud.

and, this screen is the "real" mfd, as in, if you have a busted screen, it is this

screen that is busted.

Just in case people think this is an inferior non oem substitute..

  • 1 month later...
If you have a problem with your MFD LCD screen (busted scan lines, bad backlight, bad pixels),

then replace it with this fresh new one. I've done it. I can verify that replacing it with this panel

works great. Requires removal of MFD, and careful dis-assembly of MFD, connect two ribbon cables,

and re-assembly. Takes just 10 minutes and a screwdriver.

$200 plus $9.99 shipping bubble wrapped in anti-static foam.

Hi i am after a screen and you text me pls 0414959914

Thank you

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

If anyone knows where you can get the whole MFD (with casing etc) will buy it off you...or from Nissan itself lmaa i really dont mind spending the money its better than going aftermarket and getting an Alpine screen for example which costs a shitload and doesnt even fit the factory center console on my GT...

There was 2 types of screens used in the GTR mfd, the early models used a Sharp screen, and the late models used a Toshiba screen. (as far as I know there was a supply issue with the Sharp LCD, thats why it got changed.) From what I can figure out the Nismo GTR MFD2 Unit will accept either LCD as there are both the connectors.

Make sure your GTR screen has 2x ribbon cables going to the LCD, a skinny ribbon cable and wide ribbon cable (Toshiba), or if it as 1x 30pin cable it a Sharp screen and will not fit!!

I am currently experimenting with both types of unit and will be putting up an in depth post in future...

Hi Mate,

I've got a 99 34GTR with the annoying white tram lines going through the RHS of the MFD... Can you pls confirm the toshiba screen your selling is a direct replacement for the early model 34 GTR's!

... If so can you pls put me down for one

will PM you

  • 2 weeks later...
If you have a problem with your MFD LCD screen (busted scan lines, bad backlight, bad pixels),

then replace it with this fresh new one. I've done it. I can verify that replacing it with this panel

works great. Requires removal of MFD, and careful dis-assembly of MFD, connect two ribbon cables,

and re-assembly. Takes just 10 minutes and a screwdriver.

$200 plus $9.99 shipping bubble wrapped in anti-static foam.

hi ... i would like to order 2 screens .heat busted mine and my friends. the problem is i cant pm u over here... could u email me on [email protected] .thanks

  • 2 months later...

hi there, just wondering if you have any screens left?

My one is heat damaged and realy sh@#s me. please email me as i can not pm.

thankx heaps.

[email protected]

cheers.

  • 5 months later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...