Jump to content
SAU Community

Would this front mount i/c be o.k.?

Nu2skylines

By Nu2skylines,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MADGT4 Mentor

MADGT4

Posted
Posted

Man i got a GTS4 and i'm gettin a 600x300x80 that thing is tiny man go for something a smidge bigger i mean i only got Zorst, Dual Boost controler and thats it.

In this case bigger is usually better but not too big don't want too much of a pressure drop etc.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

In a word - yes

It would probably be fine even if you intend going a larger turbo as well, something like a HKS2530.

the best sized cooler is one that is optimum for your hp goals - too big and you will get extra lag and a more sluggish throttle response.

going by the aftermarket coolers I have seen (not too many, so please dont take my words for gospel) a 'good' cooler of the dimensions you quote should be good for over 400bhp.

to quote http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/make_model...skyline_r33.asp

Note this isnt a Jap brand name cooler that they are talking about, but a local product. I have no reason to believe that a japanese product is going to be inferior:)

This intercooler uses an 18”x12” high by 3.5” thick bar and plate intercooler core, smooth aluminium tanks with 60mm inlet/outlet and centre mounting points make for quick easy fitment with minimal front bar trimming. The core itself is rated at optimum 580 horsepower with 1.5 PSI pressure drop at that level.  We have made up to 630 horsepower through these cores but with nearly 2.25 PSI pressure drop.  This cooler was featured in a Zoom magazine technical article where it proved to reduce air intake temps by nearly 25 degrees over the standard intercooler during testing where the car was run at 11 PSI for 15 seconds at 5000 RPM.  The standard intercooler had a pressure drop of up to 8 PSI at 7000RPM whereas this one had a mere 1 PSI drop.  

A bit of that is probably sales pitch, but I dont think it would be far enough away from the truth that it wouldnt be reasonable to expect good performance at up to 400 or 450bhp

my 0.02 anyways

Nu2skylines Apprentice

Nu2skylines

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Gradenko: Not too much since I'm just looking to learn how to work on the rb motors. I've already put a turbo timer and a hks exhaust on it. Looking for an intercooler and boost controller (probably greddy profec B). Changing the plugs soon but so many different opinions and I don't know what's in there right now. I checked the NGK catalog and it says 5 but then some people say 6. I don't know if to go platinum or iridium, heat range 5 or 6? I've searched many threads but still indecisive.

Madgt4: Wow, that does sound pretty large? Are you going to have too much pressure loss in that i/c? I guess that depends how efficient it is.

Steve: No, I'm not upgrading any turbos or anything. I'll probably be purchasing hks2530's from what I have read later for the R33gtr or R34gtr.

Thanks for all the advice, I'm just looking to upgrade a little and learn on this car before I purchase my R33gtr or R34gtr next year.

Anymore advice would be great. And yes, I haven't been posting much because I've been searching and reading through everything first. :(

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

That cooler will be just fine dude.

Your standard cooler will be fine for around 12 psi through the standard turbo.

Put it this way.

The standard size that MOST companies make there intercoolers is 600 x 300 x 70.

A standard GTR cooler is something like 600 x 270 x 70 (I think).

If TRUST has decided to make a cooler that is slightly smaller for a car that is more lightly tuned, I would buy it.

Actually, I would buy anything TRUST makes if I could..

send a PM to "rev210" asking about your intercooler....

He has run a 12 second pass in his R33 GTST with the standard cooler which is not that better than the R32's..

He'll set you straight.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by GTST

..

send a PM to "rev210" asking about your intercooler....

He has run a 12 second pass in his R33 GTST with the standard cooler which is not that better than the R32's..

I was under the impression that he never got his 12, just low 13s??

BOOSTD managed a 12 with stock turbo, but he had a cooler.

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

my mistake.

still.

decent number with a standard intercooler.

My point was that rev210 is one of the guys int he thinking that the larger the intercooler is not really a better thing.

It has to be matched to your turbo and so on.

So this particular intercooler 410 x 260 x 70 made by a company like TRUST will be mroe than enough for a R32 GTS4 with a cat back exhaust as the only mod.

Actually, that intercooler would be more than enough for anything the standard turbo will be able to handle.

Nu2skylines Apprentice

Nu2skylines

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys. I actually forget to say that it has a hks highflow filter but it was on there when I purchased it, not that it matters.

As I said, I just plan on putting a greddy profec b and the i/c before I get my gtr.

By the way, any suggestions on my plug situation. I'm fixing to order them. And yes, I have searched but still with so many opinions. What do you guys run on your gts'?

Nu2skylines Apprentice

Nu2skylines

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks. I was checking those out and noticed that the BCPR6ES plugs were gapped at 0.08mm and the BCPR6ES-11 were gapped at 1.1mm (0.044"). I guess I'll be ordering a box today since I can get those for only about $3 plus shipping of course. I've checked local auto shops and they want $12-15 per plug.

:(

Nu2skylines Apprentice

Nu2skylines

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Seriously, I'll be ordering over the internet. So GTST, you went with "7's" since you went colder? I know NGK does it differently than others and the cold-hot is opposite. Higher number, colder the plug from NGK. I hate that when I'm ordering for my gsr because I normally get 2 steps colder.

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by GTST

my mistake.

still.

decent number with a standard intercooler.

My point was that rev210 is one of the guys int he thinking that the larger the intercooler is not really a better thing.

It has to be matched to your turbo and so on.

So this particular intercooler 410 x 260 x 70 made by a company like TRUST will be mroe than enough for a R32 GTS4 with a cat back exhaust as the only mod.

Actually, that intercooler would be more than enough for anything the standard turbo will be able to handle.

Also you forget revs car was a freak and hes been the only one able to get such a low time with stock stuff!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...