Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

k well i personally would buy brand new ones if i could afford them

If you get your discs skimmed then they're more likely to warp again quicker, because you've made them thinner they wont be able to handle the heat as easy, also if they fall below minimum thickness after skimming then you'll need to replace them

If your going to get 2nd hand ones then make sure they're well above the minimum thickness as they may end up needing a machine themselves

Are you actually getting a pulsation through your steering wheel when you pull up a little harder than usual?

Nath

Edited by TAKUSHI
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4425060
Share on other sites

if your gunna buy buy new theres plenty of options for aftermarket discs as for machining any brake shop can do it either in house or know who to send it to

personally i find worn stock parts to be an excuse to upgrade to something better

slotted rotors and race pads yea

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4425928
Share on other sites

im probebly going to ahve to uograde my brakes after i add a bigger turbo so im lookign for something just for the time being so buying brand new rotors seems to be a bit of a waste so im tossing up between skimming them or seconf hand for a couple of months. anyone got an diea of how much skimming costs

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426157
Share on other sites

skimming 'if you can skim yours is a waste personally' + i think its about $100 to get skimmed! so, i'd get some DBA slotted there only few hundred for a pair... 'try supercheap/repco' and maybe you could just get the fronts first!?!? considering thats where majority of the braking

comes from

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426326
Share on other sites

im probebly going to ahve to uograde my brakes after i add a bigger turbo so im lookign for something just for the time being so buying brand new rotors seems to be a bit of a waste so im tossing up between skimming them or seconf hand for a couple of months. anyone got an diea of how much skimming costs

$18 ea to machine a rotor .. I have new DBA 4000 n 5000 series rotors instock .. Also have 33 GTR brembo upgrades for GTS-T :P

Nothing wrong with skimming rotors , i been doing it for 16yrs and havnt seen any thing that can back that claim of " warping easier " after maching

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426389
Share on other sites

havnt seen any thing that can back that claim of " warping easier " after maching

haha commodores and falcons do it all the time buddy

and just think about that for a sec, the discs are going to be thinner

therefore they cant handle as much heat as they could when they

were thicker, and yes that couple of mm does make the difference

otherwise they wouldnt have such a small margin of wear between

new and throw in the bin, i'd just go brand new or upgrade now

your car will then be ready for more power mods, if not then at least

you know you'll pull up sweet everytime haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426519
Share on other sites

haha commodores and falcons do it all the time buddy

and just think about that for a sec, the discs are going to be thinner

therefore they cant handle as much heat as they could when they

were thicker, and yes that couple of mm does make the difference

otherwise they wouldnt have such a small margin of wear between

new and throw in the bin, i'd just go brand new or upgrade now

your car will then be ready for more power mods, if not then at least

you know you'll pull up sweet everytime haha

Umm, sorry, but your wrong, and obviously don't know much about brakes :D

Skimming is fine, but if you have the $$$ get new discs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426593
Share on other sites

haha commodores and falcons do it all the time buddy

LOL I know commo n ford are bad , When BA was released i was doing 3 - 5 cars a day for local dealership (Ford Aus wty was paying us $200 per car to go n machine oncar ) One car had 4000ks on clock when it was first done ( was only issue on base model brakes n not the premium packages ) , EL - EF have instructions on how to fit seals because if fitted incorrectly it will cause pulsating pedal after few thoasand ks and as for holdens i do average of 5 a week for pulsating pedal .. Have done new Pajeros at 1000 -5000ks old for mits dealer aswell

My GQ wagon is over 2 tonne ( close to 5tonne when loaded with race car n spares) and rotors 19mm thick and has done over 100,000ks since rotors were machined n pads fitted with no sign of pulsating pedal yet im doing commos at 4-60 thousand ks that have been machined ever n rotor thickness of 25mm :D

Also we had letter from holden saying that doing wheels up could cause them to pulsate and ford gave me a 5 page booklet on how to remove n refit calipers n rotors to try n prevent pulsting problems :( what a joke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426624
Share on other sites

i know plenty mate, im saying a brand new disc will last longer than a disc thats been skimmed, we've had plenty of customers come in after having other places skim discs and what you they're warped again and pal as for me refering to commodores and falcons, brakes are brakes dude, it all comes down to brand of disc and driver that determines the life of a disc, just coz they're all autos

Gwp021 just save yourself the hassle and go buy new rotors, coz if you're going to spend money on oomph you wanna know you'll stop fine, its called piece of mind

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426737
Share on other sites

surprisingly when we skim the rotors and when they come in for their next service, i noticed their rotors needed machining again cause its heavily scored and pulsates everytime i brake and its been done on their last service as well which was like 1 or 2 months ago (the skimming was done properly too and they are not warped). we measure the disc on every services and yeh almost every commodore or falcon we get either needs their rotors machined or replaced.

Edited by R33_NICK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426833
Share on other sites

hey guys just wondering if anyone knows where and how much to get my front rotors skimmed or am i better off buying a secondhand rotors

thanks

OK try PERTH BRAKE PART`S in welshpool & have them GROUND ,you should pay about $80 to $100,but it is worth while,
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4427101
Share on other sites

Takushi, That's not what you said, but whatever.

sx, In summary: skimming is cheap, but is only an option if you have enough material left, otherwise new rotors are on the cards.

haha oh really??

If you get your discs skimmed then they're more likely to warp again quicker, because you've made them thinner they wont be able to handle the heat as easy

aaand you still manage to repeat what ive already told him

also if they fall below minimum thickness after skimming then you'll need to replace them

68*** posts and counting....4 yrs of experience as a mechanic and counting

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4427454
Share on other sites

i know plenty mate, im saying a brand new disc will last longer than a disc thats been skimmed, we've had plenty of customers come in after having other places skim discs and what you they're warped again and pal as for me refering to commodores and falcons, brakes are brakes dude, it all comes down to brand of disc and driver that determines the life of a disc, just coz they're all autos

Gwp021 just save yourself the hassle and go buy new rotors, coz if you're going to spend money on oomph you wanna know you'll stop fine, its called piece of mind

um i may not have been clear i am running new rotors ( top level RDA's with braided lines and yellow stuff pads) cause i wanted to know my car could stop right specially with the comp racing i do

what i was trying to point out was that if the choice was made not to machine but to buy personally i'd choose to avoid the issue of using older worn discs that'd probably need machining soon anyhow and buy new

and honestly with what nissan charges it's really worth looking at aftermarket products

cheers

GWP

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4427474
Share on other sites

A. TAKUSHI, why did you quote yourself? (Twice)

B. I'm not going to theorise on the implications of skimming brakes, because theorising has already been done...

C. From my 1st hand experience, when i imported my car i was told "all of your rotors need to be skimmed", 3 years later... same rotors, same pads, no skimming, still going (40,000kms.)

Anyway, if skimming was sooooo bad, why would it be an option?

Edited by Tezzah
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4427476
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...