Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

whos to say they can be skimmed? with normal wear and tear you'd be lucky to skim once say if your car done 100,000km!

+1 upgrade fronts

p.s i dont think its that cheap to skim discs... takes a while to get them even again like they do 1 side a time... takes like a 1hr for fronts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

whos to say they can be skimmed? with normal wear and tear you'd be lucky to skim once say if your car done 100,000km!

With normal wear and tear you will never need to skim rotors.

Skimming is only required because of abnormal wear and tear.

A. TAKUSHI, why did you quote yourself? (Twice)

Because im making a point and someone who spends that much time on sau alone needs to get out and experience life once in a while, not tryin to sound like a dick but damn thats alot of free time and to miss my point in my 1st post

C. From my 1st hand experience, when i imported my car i was told "all of your rotors need to be skimmed", 3 years later... same rotors, same pads, no skimming, still going (40,000kms.)

Again depends on driver, you hammer your brakes, you'll chew them out quicker and glaze them up, if you fit a metalic compounded pad they'll chew out your rotors quicker and yes ive never had to skim my discs or change my pads but thats coz driving a manual has its advantages

Anyway, if skimming was sooooo bad, why would it be an option?

But seeing as you asked, skimming is just the cheapest way of getting more life out of your brakes. buying new rotors, in the end, saves you money

im saying a brand new disc will last longer than a disc thats been skimmed,

You do rotor/drum/flywheel machining at your work place or just replace with new items all the time ??

whos to say they can be skimmed? with normal wear and tear you'd be lucky to skim once say if your car done 100,000km!p.s i dont think its that cheap to skim discs... takes a while to get them even again like they do 1 side a time... takes like a 1hr for fronts

Both sides should be machined at same time and machining costs $18 a rotor and dont take 1hr to do ( if it does then there retarded ) Takes me 10-20mins to do a set :)

You do rotor/drum/flywheel machining at your work place or just replace with new items all the time ??

Both sides should be machined at same time and machining costs $18 a rotor and dont take 1hr to do ( if it does then there retarded ) Takes me 10-20mins to do a set :)

We have a machine that gets regularly used as most people either dont have the money or they decide against new rotors, we give our all our customers either option and they decide on what they want to do, we skim discs but not drums-machine fitting for that went walk about long before i started work there and as for flywheels we send those away

We have a machine that gets regularly used as most people either dont have the money or they decide against new rotors, we give our all our customers either option and they decide on what they want to do

How many come back needing to be remachined ??

Aside from the utter bullsh*t posted above (feeling like a retard yet takushi?)

How do you know if your brakes require skimming/machining? Is there a rule of thumb?

It can't be just pedal feel/pulsating surely?

I've got small grooves in my discs, and a small ~0.5mm raised edge on the outer circle of my discs (where the pad doesn't bite the disc) - maybe it needs skimming?

How do you know if your brakes require skimming/machining? Is there a rule of thumb?

It can't be just pedal feel/pulsating surely?

I've got small grooves in my discs, and a small ~0.5mm raised edge on the outer circle of my discs (where the pad doesn't bite the disc) - maybe it needs skimming?

If your having pads replaced we advise on machining as rotors never wear even ..

Also prefer to machine as theres less chance pad noise due to glazed rotor ..

As for lip on the rotor if you were replacing pads i suggest you machine them if there above the replacement thickness ( most asume its minimum machining thickness )

Aside from the utter bullsh*t posted above (feeling like a retard yet takushi?)

How do you know if your brakes require skimming/machining? Is there a rule of thumb?

It can't be just pedal feel/pulsating surely?

I've got small grooves in my discs, and a small ~0.5mm raised edge on the outer circle of my discs (where the pad doesn't bite the disc) - maybe it needs skimming?

hahaha oh dont make me laugh dude haha 1st your saying- whats been said is utter crap, then you ask how do you tell if they'd need machining, c'mon mate stop being a keyboard warrior and actually read whats being said, im actually giving out much needed info, or this poor the sphincter of the universe will go out and get whatever done which might not be the right way, the guy asked for info so i gave it, people got a prob with it then maybe they need to go to tafe for 4 yrs

And yes grooves and lips on discs do add to shortened pad life so a machine could be a good option on your next pad change

Also dsturbd yeah we've had a couple of people come back bout 6 months or so later saying theres pulsation again but thats only been with the falcons and commodores and one case with a discovery 3 landrover, and we only machined their pads coz the price of discs was a bit much for them at the time

Also dsturbd yeah we've had a couple of people come back bout 6 months or so later saying theres pulsation again but thats only been with the falcons and commodores and one case with a discovery 3 landrover, and we only machined their pads coz the price of discs was a bit much for them at the time

So the problem cars i mentioned have been the 1s to return :laugh: As for the Landy did it have pulsating pedal before machining was done ??

So the problem cars i mentioned have been the 1s to return :laugh: As for the Landy did it have pulsating pedal before machining was done ??

Nah just massive lips, once the machine was done, it only just came to over the allowable limit, for some reason european cars chew out their discs quick aye, get shit loads of astras doing it

if you just need some normal std rotors rda make some very affordable new rotors , not really worth going 2nd hand at their prices

if theres meat enough to skim them skim them , even if you get another 6 months at 20$ each does it matter . then its time for new ones

mmm now i think i remember bubba on here put 34gtt rims on his 32 after putting 33 calipers on and he needed 5mm spacers that made the rims just clear on the front, not sure with 32 stockers though, if you're reading lyell wana shed some light? Haha

mmm now i think i remember bubba on here put 34gtt rims on his 32 after putting 33 calipers on and he needed 5mm spacers that made the rims just clear on the front, not sure with 32 stockers though, if you're reading lyell wana shed some light? Haha

Interested to know why it needed spacer ..

mmm now i think i remember bubba on here put 34gtt rims on his 32 after putting 33 calipers on and he needed 5mm spacers that made the rims just clear on the front, not sure with 32 stockers though, if you're reading lyell wana shed some light? Haha
Interested to know why it needed spacer ..

On the 34gtt rims, in between each spoke is a little bit the pokes back in towards the hub.. when I first put the 34gtt rims ons, the little bit in between the spokes clamped up on the stock calipers. I had to use 3mm spacers to get the rims to clear.

When I put 33gtst brakes on (296mm rotor as opposed to 280mm) the caliper sat out further from the centre enough that the little pokey bit on the rims cleared without spacers. And when I say cleared.. there was like 0.5-1mm of clearance.

Now running 327mm rotors with 33gtst calipers on dogbones, barely fit inside the 34gtt rims :) now I'm got some 18s on there so the brakes should be getting a lot more airflow.

In summary: I've never had stock 32gtst rims so I can't really say.. 33gtst rims fit over them fine (obviously) and I think they're a very similar size to the 32gtst rims.

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...