Jump to content
SAU Community

D-project Subframe Brace, Lsd Diff, Advan Rcii + Advan Semislicks, Raybrig Hids, Narva Foglights, Rear Swaybar Setup, S15 Taillights


Recommended Posts

@ sydney/homebush, can do package deals, first in first served, all offers considered, can deliver anything but big things you'll have to pay :)

brand new D-Project Rear Subframe Brace

Suit Silvia/200SX S13 S14 S15, Skyline R32 R33 R34, Cefiro A31 (NON HICAS)

$135 delivered via express overnight (new is $165)

IMG_5490.JPG

example pic of where the brace goes:

rear%20subframe%20bar%202.jpg

r33gtst rear swaybar with d-brackets + d-bushings and full endlinks

Price: $50

price dropped: $40

s15 (same as R34 GTR) R200 HELICAL LSD centre with output shafts, best diff money can buy for your street car and/or grip racing.

Price: $350

price dropped: $310

price dropped: $280

s15 taillights including both harnesses, see pics

$130

*rare* 26mm 100% OEM factory nissan s15/s14 radiator, from some lucky s14s only your stock one is 12 or 14mm thin, direct bolt in onto any s14 and s15 and keeps your standard shroud and fan setup to look 100% standard, will not leak on you like the china shit lol

price: $150

price dropped: $140

USED genuine and damn rare Raybrig HID foglights!!, including all wiring and Raybrig switch, Raybrig relays and Raybrig housings

$590 express overnight delivered

price dropped: $560

price dropped: $500

price dropped: $480

price dropped: $450

price dropped: $410

USED quality brand NARVA foglights, model = compac 80, 55w, 80mm wide version

$90 express overnight delivered

price dropped: $70

price dropped: $60, sells for $130 at autobarn! (pic from autobarn attached for reference :thumbsup:)

4x Advan Racing "RCII" @ 17x8.5" +31offset, 5x114.3pcd

4x Advan Racing "A048" semislick tyres @ 235/45/17MH

A set of lightweight Advan Racing "RCII" wheels 17x8.5" +31 offset, previous owner of the rims had them on a nissan skyline and said one has been fixed and repainted so that's why there isn't a sticker, the others have some rash here and there so please check the pictures, with a set of Advan "A048" semislick tyres in 235/45/17MH with enough tread for a trackday or two and some commuting :)

Price: $1800

Price dropped: $1700

Price dropped: $1650

Price dropped: $1600

Price dropped: $1550

these rims will fit under both the front and rear guards and can fit a huge amount of tyres on that size: it means you can rotate the rims/tyres to make the most out of all 4 tyres, as opposed to just keeping the front pair and the rear pair separate = making track days cheaper for you

@ sydney/homebush, can do package deals, first in first served, all offers considered, can deliver anything but big things you'll have to pay :)

Click for PICS Click for PICS Click for PICS Click for PICS

Yeeah - I actually think I need a HICAS bar - not this brace - I have a bit missing from my subframe - but because it is missing I don't know what bit it is..... I need to take some pics....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
×
×
  • Create New...