Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know its a travesty to see a WRX on a Skyline forum, but - anyone wishing to buy an economical practical car with lots of tuning potential - have a look. I used to be a Skyline owner and certainly don't regret changing to a WRX - even though I still have a soft spot for Skylines too (Yes, I will own an R35 one day!) WRX and Skylines are both awesome cars for different reasons.

Anyway heres the details.

Subaru WRX Sedan Silver 97 Model GC8 MY97.

This car is for sale due to loss of license. (I will have 12 months with 2 points once I get it back in 6 months)

The car has been very well looked after and mechanically in amazingly good condition.

It has recently (May) had a complete engine rebuild with new Mahle FORGED Pistons, rebore and hone, measured and linish crank, timing belt, clutch, bearings, balanced, new head bolts etc. This means it is basically done 10,000ks and engine is as fresh as a new one, and stronger too. I have receipts this cost over $5000 done professionally by someone I know and is ready for a long life and/or big power.

Other WRX's of this era will probably be coming close to requiring money spent on them. This one has already had all the money spent and is ready for years of trouble free motoring /or big power.

The rebuild was done as I had plans to modify the turbo etc, but never got around to it and now since I have 18 months of not wanting to go fast at all I decided to remove any source of temptation..

Car is stock, never been boosted, and had only very minor mods installed (sti exhaust and TMIC) but now back to stock.

186000 Ks and Rego till October.

This car has been garaged and paintwork is in very good condition.

The car is owned outright so feel free to do a revs check. http://www.revs.nsw.gov.au/

The car has a pioneer CD player, and an immobiliser with 'quiktrack' tracking system.

Car location is Kirribilli NSW.

Please email [email protected] to arrange and inspection, generally after 6pm is good and weekends.

Pictures can be found at http://www.carpoint.com.au/used-car/SUBARU....aspx?State=NSW

Edited by Guest
Phone number removed
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...