Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys about 10 months ago i replaced my coilpacks with splitfires and it fixed my missfire but this morning i went for a drive and its back on both normal boost and 10 psi. does this mean my coil packs are fried again??? do splitfires come with a warranty?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257568-yet-another-missfire-problem/
Share on other sites

yeah i changed the plugs before i changed the coil packs with iridium ones wich was around 4000 k's ago cost me a fortune , but just then i went for a drive and the outside temp is alot warmer now, and funny enough no missfire im so confused........... did i mention my car was for sale????????? lol

Edited by leeboi33

leeboi33

What type of plugs did you use? Just saying they cost a fortune and they are iridium isnt telling us anything other than you wasted your money...

What was the part number and what were they gapped to?

My suggestion is to get some NGK BCPR6E or BCPR7E plugs and try them - they are about $3 a plug so for $18 to fix your problem I think this is a cheap way to start...

gees what a pain in the ass having to take off all that stuff just to check the numbers. but im fairly sure i just went what was in the book for ngk iridium. but even so does the spark plugs make a difference? i mean i changed them and it missfired then changed my coilpacks and it went away, surely that means its the packs not the plugs

Edited by leeboi33

Holly hell...

Yes it will make a difference... Gee what a pain in the ass asking you the same question again and again.

If your looking for more guesses and want to keep running round in circles thats fine. If your looking for help - maybe start looking to eliminate problems by actually doing something instead of just typing...?

Spark plugs have many different types of heat ranges and gaps which will all effect how the engine runs. Normally a gap of 0.8mm will be fine, however, iridiums can come with a gap of 1.1mm this will make a difference as there is a bigger gap sometimes the spark gets blown out and cant ignite the mixture = hence a missfire.

Not having a go, but it does wear a little thin you just coming back and telling us it ran ok for 5 seconds and it was hot and not giving any detail.

He said he's running normal boost of 10 PSI, so there is really no need to gap the plug to .8. Only when you are running higher boost and getting misfire, then you should gap it smaller. My 32GTR is running stock boost and stock coilpack and runs 1.1mm gap no problem.

You should always run the biggest gap possible since that will provide you with a stronger spark and hence cleaner burn. It is possible it is caused by coil pack. Do you tighten down the plugs to the correct torque?

If he is running iridiums, then it is a 1.1mm plug, as the NGK books for skylines all list iridium/platinum plugs at 1.1mm. Hence why at my work i have crossed this crap out and put down BCPR7E since i get this problem with customers on a weekly basis. Get BCPR7E plugs and your missfire will go away.

Done and done.

Edited by PM-R33

hey i did abit of reasearch and found this on youtube

its the exact same problem as mine and he fixed it with new plugs so maybe after 4000 or so k's the plugs do need changing wich sucks cos i payed so much for them , i have heard of iridiums not lasting very long but it seems like it was true so next week i will change the plugs back 2 copper ones and let u all know what happens

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...