Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need to claim back some shed space so I will keep updating the list of parts as I except the fact I cant keep everthing

Bare r32 gtr front cut suit crash repair.....$500.00

r32 gtr front end hubs, control arms, ps rack, complete or will seperate? pm me hubs sold..

gtr sump modified for rwd (was in my rb26 vl) $350.00

hks pods and adaptors suit 32-33 gtr...$120.00

r33 gtr turbos...(poor condition suit rebuild).....$100.00 pair...sold

rb25et ser 2 motor from stagea new water pump but has blown head gasket.....$800.00 or will seperate? pm me

stagea radiator suit r33gtst also..$120.00

r32 gtr radiator......$150.00

r32 gtr engine harness (has been chopped easy repair)....$80.00

r33 gtr standard rods and pistons only 25k old....$300.00

stagea standard awd auto and transfer worked perfect before removal...$300.00

r32 gtr 5speed box and transfer (no shifter)....$700.00

r32 gtr abs unit ....$200.00

r32 gtr brake master and booster......$200.00

r32 gtr clutch master and booster.......$180.00

hks pod suit gtst afm.....$100.00...sold

3"dump pipe from r33 gtst has had repairs and a flex added looks agricultural but works....$75.00

Trust twin 2.5" twin system suit r33 gtr was running (twin td06 tubos) goes into single 4" at the diff flows big hp....$600.00

Trust twin td05-06 high mount stainless manifold suit rb26....$800.00

gtst r200 4.1 lsd centre...$250.00

various misc parts from r33 rb26 engine and r32 front cut left overs ask I may have what you need

I will add pics as I can or pm me your email, will listen to all resonable offers. parts are in brisbane south I will post at buyers cost. call or text 0431787453 Thank you.

More parts

stainless xforce rb26 low mount manifolds, split dumps and front pipes manifolds and dumps are unused...$800.00 or will seperate.

os twin plate and flywheel suit rb26 push type, used suit reco $400.00

dumps sold pending payment. prices updated
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...