Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Car is a r32 gtr with rb30dett.

Have an issue atm. Basically I installed an 044 intank, tomei fpr, and a pressure gauge after the fuel filter.

What happens is when you turn the ign to the "on" position the pump will prime and you will see the pressure rise to 40psi, then go straight back down to 0 after prime. The car will start after 2-3 cranks then the idle pressure will sit at 40psi, revving will see it move slightly off 40psi but looks stable.

Now I used the existing factory gtr check vavle on the 044 so I don't see this as being the problem but it may be, it is around the right way and I was pretty careful when installing.

Am I right in assuming after switching to the ON position, it should prime then hold 40psi rail pressure waiting for crank yes? I am now going to chuck a factory r33 reg back on to see what happens.

Does anyone have suggestions?

Edited by James_03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258130-fuel-pressure-issue-after-some-mods/
Share on other sites

At "ON", the FPR "sees" atmospheric pressure. At idle, the FPR "sees" vacuum, and the fuel pressure should be less than 40 psi. The FPR should adjust the fuel pressure so that the rail pressure is some constant value above manifold pressure.

It could be a faulty FPR. Or the check valve on the pump is faulty in some way.

At "ON", the FPR "sees" atmospheric pressure. At idle, the FPR "sees" vacuum, and the fuel pressure should be less than 40 psi. The FPR should adjust the fuel pressure so that the rail pressure is some constant value above manifold pressure.

It could be a faulty FPR. Or the check valve on the pump is faulty in some way.

Ok the thing I want to know most is when turning the key to "ON" and letting it prime for 5 sec, should the rail hold 40psi before starting? Because right before cranking its sitting at 0. I need to know if this is a problem.

I think I am incorrect in thinking this. Maybe its actually all OK. The factory GTR manual states it should be sitting at 40psi rail pressure on idle, which it is. But it's the prime I am concerned about.

I get what your saying but and thanks for the reply.

Edited by James_03

It should hold pressure for start as other wise the pump has to build pressure before start , and easy way to check which side it's loosing pressure on is prime the pump and clamp the return line and if it drops it's on the feed side

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...