Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys have a nismo short shifter for rb25 gearbox. the plastic bit that sits at the bottom of shifter seems to shat itself and i need a new.

so i got a standard shifter got the plastic out of that trying putting it on the nismo shifter and it wont fit on.

so i called up a few places and they told me that nismo dont make that part and only sell them with the short shifter kits and was told i have to get one made up.

can someone help me out here plz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258277-nismo-short-shifter/
Share on other sites

hi guys have a nismo short shifter for rb25 gearbox. the plastic bit that sits at the bottom of shifter seems to shat itself and i need a new.

so i got a standard shifter got the plastic out of that trying putting it on the nismo shifter and it wont fit on.

so i called up a few places and they told me that nismo dont make that part and only sell them with the short shifter kits and was told i have to get one made up.

can someone help me out here plz

That's weird man. You can buy the caps from a Nissan dealership. The shifters work on RB20 boxes as well as RB25's. The only difference between the two is the cap size is bigger on RB25 and GTR boxes, and the retaining bolts are longer on RB25/GTR.

The caps are only a few bucks so it's worth trying. You will need to give it a bit of pressure to fit them on as well. I placed the cap on the ground and pushed the shifter into the cap using a small amount of body weight.

I had to swap mine from the RB20 box to the RB25 when I made the change, and the ball was the same size between the two. Only the cap size differed.

That's weird man. You can buy the caps from a Nissan dealership. The shifters work on RB20 boxes as well as RB25's. The only difference between the two is the cap size is bigger on RB25 and GTR boxes, and the retaining bolts are longer on RB25/GTR.

The caps are only a few bucks so it's worth trying. You will need to give it a bit of pressure to fit them on as well. I placed the cap on the ground and pushed the shifter into the cap using a small amount of body weight.

I had to swap mine from the RB20 box to the RB25 when I made the change, and the ball was the same size between the two. Only the cap size differed.

Yeah ditto on all of that. While mine was a C's shifter though, the principles should be the same.. ran it on my RB20 box and then the 25t box.

I would also maybe find a short bit of pipe that fits nicely around the shifter bush as if you give it too much force to get the ball in you can destroy the nylon bush pretty quickly.. something around the outside of it should help keep it in one piece.

  • 3 weeks later...

i was about to buy a nismo short shifter for my r33 GTST but heard they can cause long term problems with the gearbox. Grinding etc. Is this true?

My brother has an 07 WRX with the (factory option however) STI Short Shift. It makes quite a difference in feel.

i was about to buy a nismo short shifter for my r33 GTST but heard they can cause long term problems with the gearbox. Grinding etc. Is this true?

First I've heard.

I've had mine for 2 years with no ill effects so far.

  • 2 months later...

Hey all,

Searched the forums and this is as close as I have come to my problem.

I have a Nismo shifter in a 33gstst. For some reason whenever I am giving it a squirt and hitting around 6krpm or above and change from 2nd to 3rd, or 3rd to 4th the shifter seems to pop out of its housing? And I cannot find any gears? The shift distance greatly increases (like factory) and the car pretty much becomes undrive-able.

This has happened on a couple of occasions. The first time I took it to my mechanic and he just said the nylon bush needed replacing/repairing and it shouldn't happen again. Around 3 months later it has happened again. This time I took it apart myself, inspected and re-seated everything in hope it would be fixed, however no avail.

Is this a common problem? Can anyone point me in the right direction to know how to fix this? Preferably permanently.

Cheers,

Greg

i was about to buy a nismo short shifter for my r33 GTST but heard they can cause long term problems with the gearbox. Grinding etc. Is this true?

It depends on how you drive. You can punish your gearbox with the standard shifter as well, its just that the sort shifter makes it easier to change gears more quickly. Lots of very fast changes will eventually take their toll. Dont drive like a dick and you'll be fine. :P

It depends on how you drive. You can punish your gearbox with the standard shifter as well, its just that the sort shifter makes it easier to change gears more quickly. Lots of very fast changes will eventually take their toll. Dont drive like a dick and you'll be fine. :P

Great background info mate, however I am after a solution this doesn't answer my question.

Anyone know how to fix?

Cheers.

Great background info mate, however I am after a solution this doesn't answer my question.

Anyone know how to fix?

Cheers.

Dude did you see the QUOTE (Mattw_83 @ 15 Mar 2009, 12:12 PM) at the top? I wasnt answering your question...

But - have you got the correct internal circlip on yours? It shouldn't be able to pop out. IIRC it holds down a nylon "cup" that the ball on the shifter sits in.

if your talking about the half cup that the shifter sits in inside the gearbox housing and the plastic ring that locks the shifter in, try twisting the shifter and half to discover that the bottom half threads into the top half my idiot friend cut the plastic retainer ring to fit it over the ball end of the shifter instead of twisting it in half.

Mr Kotter, I did not see any circlip - maybe mines missing? I missed your quote earlier sorry mate.

Sukai, I will have another look at this when I get it off again.

Does anyone know why this happens? Poor shifter? I would have thought better of Nismo.

Thanks for the info guys, appreciated.

I also have this problem

I have a apparent r33 stock shifter that does the same as what Skydragon is having issues with.

Also have a stock r32 and stock s13 shifter available

The plastic cap on the end of the "r33" shifter is much larger and doesnt fit into the bottom of the s13 and r32 shifters...

I did a r33 box convo and never got a shifter with it :ermm:

Ok I havent got the r32 shifter handy (its bolted into the box and its cold outside, cbf pulling it out)

But this is what the r33 shifter looks like.

It seems the shaft that the smaller ball and nylon cup is too short for the box.

Its a good 10mm shorter than the r32 item.

The nylon cup from the r33 shifter also doesnt fit into the r32 shifter.

http://img189.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00163y.jpg

Can anymore confirm that its the correct shifter?

Ok I havent got the r32 shifter handy (its bolted into the box and its cold outside, cbf pulling it out)

But this is what the r33 shifter looks like.

It seems the shaft that the smaller ball and nylon cup is too short for the box.

Its a good 10mm shorter than the r32 item.

The nylon cup from the r33 shifter also doesnt fit into the r32 shifter.

http://img189.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00163y.jpg

Can anymore confirm that its the correct shifter?

Greets man.

That doesn't look like a short shifter. The throw should be longer than what I'm seeing.

The short shifter setup works by placing a bushing into the seat and extending the throw, compensating for the bush. The shifter sits on top of the bush. A cap is used to retain the shifter because it no longer sits inside the seat and cannot be retained by the factory circlip, it's also bolted down using C clamps.

The 20 box uses the same lever as the 25, the only difference being that the 20 box uses a smaller nylon cap, and the 25 uses a larger cap. The GT-R box uses the same cap and lever as the 25.

Yer I know its not a short shifter, but I was having the same problem with the plastic cup not seating properly and ripping the shifter out of the selector.

Also need a opinion if its actually a r33 shifter, not something else...

The nylon cup thing of that shifter pictured %100 does not fit onto the end of my R32 shifter :D

Yer I know its not a short shifter, but I was having the same problem with the plastic cup not seating properly and ripping the shifter out of the selector.

Also need a opinion if its actually a r33 shifter, not something else...

The nylon cup thing of that shifter pictured %100 does not fit onto the end of my R32 shifter :D

Replace the nylon cap, they're only about $5 from Nissan.

R33 and R32 shifters are the same.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...