Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah i understand the engine rotates clockwize but wouldnt turning the centre of the pulley clockwize advance the cam timing not retard it????

im sure the centre of the cam goes counterclockwise to retard

Damn, your right. Sorry about that.

To delay the cam (the cam is fixed to the center of the cam gear) the centre of the cam gear should be turned counter clockwise !

I was thinking of it the other way around :D

My bad.....

J

Ok I've got my 2 degrees dialed in. I've thought about it and I have to agree with the consensus of anti-clockwise.

Now I don't want this to move, ever. So I'm thinking I will put some loctite on the nuts or something.

Sorry to keep replying to this thread :D But I'd never seen a picture of an Apexi cam wheel before mine arrived this morning. I thought some of you might be interested so I took 2 pics and attached them here.

When I was looking at buying one I found Apexi to be the cheapest, and because of that it made me wary. To be honest if the brand wasn't Apexi I would have gone for a more expensive one, it was just that I trusted the name and so I decided to go for it. After looking at it and feeling how solid it is and how precise the machining is, I'd say it's as good as any other in the quality stakes.

There are no doubt lighter/stronger ones available, but at a higher price. I'm happy with my choice.

11261 yen plus 2100 yen delivery = AU$175 at the exchange rate on the day (a few weeks ago).

The HKS one was the next one up on the price list at around 11800 yen I think.

Jay, does this mean you've adjusted yours in the wrong direction? :) Or you just forgot which way you did it until now.

I confused the crap out of myself !! LOL

I adjusted it correctly, then yesterday my brain got scrambled and I explained it wrong !

Thank god it's Friday....

J

Ok now I'm just depressed. The hardest thing so far is getting the wheel back on. How do yo do it? I tried putting the original one on but it's still bloody impossible. What can I use to lever it on and where do I lever it? There just doesn't seem to be any points where I can lever it from.

The cam seems pretty well fixed in place, if I can't rotate the crank with a socket (since I don't have a 27mm one) can I move the cam slightly? I've already marked where it was when I pulled the wheel off so I've got a reference point.

No rush in response, I'm going to leave it for the day. I need a break!

JimX - if you can't rotate the crank, then rotate the cam a little - and I mean just a little.

You'll need to rotate the cam counter clockwise.

The other option is to set the cam gear to zero, put it on, then adjust it on the car. Not my prefered way of doing it, but I suppose that's the way they dyno tune them (eg. adjust them while their on the car.)

J

Well, the problem is I can't even get the original one back on :( The belt is just too tight. Can I somehow loosen the tensioner or something? Or just lever the wheel on somehow.

Hmm, did you clamp off the belt to the inlet cam wheel??

I was thinking before, you might be able to get the crank to move back a little by just grabbing the air con and power steering belts and yanking them backward. Not sure if it'll work, but it's worth a try. It might give you just enough movement to get it on.

When you've been trying to get the wheel back on, how close is the dowl to the dowl hole on the cam wheel? Can you see where it's out?

It's strange cause I had no problems with the tension of the belt, the only problem I had (with both cars) is that the dowl wasn't lining up with the dowl hole on the cam wheel - hence why I said a slight rotation of the crank let me get the cam wheel on.

I can't think of anyway of levering it back on. But maybe if you slightly rotate the inlet cam wheel which will pull the belt tighter on the tensioner which in turn will give a little bit of slack on the exhaust side.

Then when the exhaust cam is back on, just make sure the marks still line up and then the tensioner will move the belt back to where it was before (cause the belt is toothed).

Give that a try and see how you go.

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...