Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Looks like some dollars have been spent on that. They run a similar intercooler set up to what we have planed.

How do the jap powered cars go at speedway?

Iv'e found the answer to my question :-

Edited by GROWLY CUSTOM CNC

Here a bit of info for the guys interested in building a cheap race car for dirt circuit. This car was started 12 days ago by a couple of novices and may be almost ready to race this weekend. The car (something a bit different a Hyundai sonata) was free. The materials for the roll cage cost $170 and the whole cars should be built for approx $500 - $600. Check out this thread it has some good info on how to fit the roll cage yourself and eventually will contain all the info to build a sedan based car.

http://www.dirtcircuitsa.com/index.php?showtopic=1396[/url]

DSCF1532.jpg

Edited by GROWLY CUSTOM CNC
  • 2 weeks later...

still no new car in the garage it is still sitting in a shed that we cant access atm due too a muddy track :-( but on the bright side i picked up 2 rear tyres for it ....thank god for friends with sprintcars i scored these 2 that only had done 1 heat race on them

well actually i could damo these are 94 circumfrence x15inch rim size x 15 inches wide i grabbed the small ones they use . they use up too a 105 circumfrence x 15 inch rim x 17 inches wide . but there 410 ci alloy moter pulls just a bit harder than the 308 ive got lol

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Dean, Here's another option. Chris Noth on the Truro raceway committee has this for sale :-blown, injected, 350 Chev. It was last run in a commodore super sedan from Roxby and as you can imagine was insanely fast. It's a pity they banned nitrous a few years ago. A bit of laughing gas would make the 308 go hard.

Titles9.jpg

yeah damo still sticking with the 308 cause i have one sitting here already just waiting for the pistons too rock up then will send the lot in to be balanced and will put it together .

i really dont want too spend a lot on the donk so if the car runs c or b grade so be it im really only after a bit of fun thats reliable and cheap ..but if growley custom cnc wants too buy that blower and sponser me a deal im happy to buy low comp pistons lol .

cheers all more pics as i go along

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...