Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I'm up for a new clutch, I've read a few threads on clutches and im probably leaning towards a Exedy Organic HD clutch. The car is a R33 with around 190rwkw. Ive tried ringing Jim Berry like 5 times on different days but havent been able to get a hold of him (he said he would call me back and hasnt) to see what kinda clutch he can offer me, I'm done chasing him so I'll probably just go for the Exedy HD or should i go for the Exedy cushion button? The car is a daily driver so it needs to be driveable through heavy traffic.

I will probably do the clutch change my self but just wanted to ask what bearings are usually changed when changing the clutch? Cause at the moment I've got like a cricket sound in the gearbox when the clutch is not pressed in, as soon as i press it in a little bit it goes away. Also when i press the clutch pedal sometimes it sqeaks... so what should i be looking at when i change the clutch? Any help appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259526-need-a-new-clutch/
Share on other sites

The organic should be fine for the power your running, I had an Exedy 5 puk HDB in mine and it wasn't too undrivable at all. It did however toast itself and semi melt itself to the flywheel the other week. Thats after 12,000k's and apparently there was no free play.

The kit will come with a thrust/throw out bearing, which is the one causing your noise I think. It is the one that the clutch fork pushes against the pressure plate.

The sqeak is most likely where the fork pivots off the pivot ball inside the bell housing. carefully add grease to the pivot ball, don't get any on any clutch component or flywheel. Probably a good idea to have the flywheel machined at the same time.

I have an organic which is rated to 240kw (which is what i'm running and its fine). Perfect for heavy traffic.

As well as the throw out bearing that'll you'll get with the clutch kit, you also want to replace the spigot bearing which sits in then end of the crankshaft (and supports the gearbox's input shaft. You'd be crazy not to do it while the gearbox is out. Its a sintered bearing so you fill it with lubricant before you install it. Just search for spigot here to find more info.

As well as the throw out bearing that'll you'll get with the clutch kit, you also want to replace the spigot bearing which sits in then end of the crankshaft (and supports the gearbox's input shaft. You'd be crazy not to do it while the gearbox is out. Its a sintered bearing so you fill it with lubricant before you install it. Just search for spigot here to find more info.

I read a few threads on this spigot bearing and damn its not the easiest thing to get out...but i'll try packing grease inside to force it out.

And definetly getting the flywheel machined, thanks for the replies.

I have an organic which is rated to 240kw (which is what i'm running and its fine). Perfect for heavy traffic.

As well as the throw out bearing that'll you'll get with the clutch kit, you also want to replace the spigot bearing which sits in then end of the crankshaft (and supports the gearbox's input shaft. You'd be crazy not to do it while the gearbox is out. Its a sintered bearing so you fill it with lubricant before you install it. Just search for spigot here to find more info.

That reminded me, woulda totally forgotten when put everything back together, just ordered one. Cheers!

I had a sports organic and it didnt last too long, and i wasnt ridiculously harsh on it but there was a bit of 'spirited' driving. Put is this way, the standard clutch lasted longer.. with only slightly less mods (being frotn mount and boost)

I now run a full monty from jim berry and its top notch, never slips or reaks like the excedy ones do, and was even easier to press than the excedy, it can be a bit bitey but you get used to it - i use it as a daily driver.

I highly reccomend calling him again, the number i get him on is 07 38479999

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...