Jump to content
SAU Community

cheap Mandrel bends

YBSLO4

By YBSLO4,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

As i work with a mandrel bender on a daily basis, i was talking to my boss the last day or two and was chatting about all our left over bends that we have lieing round and we thought bout just getting rid of them cheap to guys interested in them for like cooelr piping and exhaustt systems. Generally i get a lot of 3" alloy and steel, both perfect for cooler piping and definately steel for exhausts, of which i had my dump pipe made for about 30 bucks. We bend from 40mm tubing up to 4", but generally the most used is 3", 60mm and 50mm. 60mm alloy is perfect for R33/32 intercooler piping which is what i used on my car, 50mm for some like 180sx's coming off the turbo etc and 3" is good for the outlet side of the cooler going to throtttle body on say SR20's and so on or really good for GTR's and gtst's running larger turbos and what have you. I try and put aside as much of them as i can not to waste them, and at themoment i have about 15 odd 3" mandrel bends ranging from about 45, 60, 70, 75, 90 degree bends in steel, in alloy there is a handful or 3mm wall 3" 90 degree bends and a few in 4.75mm heavy gauge piping in 90's aswell. There's a couple of 60mm 90's and a heaps of 50's. On a weekly basis we usually have this many lieing round constantly rotating between sizeing depending on what i am bending at the time for different jobs. So if anyone is interested PM me if you have any size of what you need, i think he was saying about 15-20 bucks each or something which is damn cheap cos normally the bend itself is about that without material but these have a lot of material either side of bend which is good to cut and play with. Puting i thtis way sounds a lot better, for a 180sx with an SR20, i you could get a cull cat back exahaust in 3" made for about 100 bucks (without muffler)... it will cost more for the flanges to bolt up to the cat than the bend needed and piping to make the rest as they only really need one 60 odd degree bend in a good straight system. So let me know and i can fill you in on whats lieing round at the time so feel free to PM me.

This is not a profit thing, i am basically just trying tos top it all being wasted cos we get about 20% back of the material value when its recylcled which is a real waste, so if we can cover the material cost it will save us and the environment, cos it can't be totally recylced!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25955-cheap-mandrel-bends/
Share on other sites
YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Um it's in knox, but i can bring the bends home easily. Guessing from when i did mine it will be 60mm piping on the turbo side to the cooler then will go up to bout 3" to the plenum from the cooler but not 100% sure. But let me know and ic an tell u if i got the bends.

YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All alloy is 3mm wall thickness and is 6003 T4 bending grade alloy (very exspensive shyte). Steel is 2mm mild steel, have some 3mm in 60mm piping but only two and too heavy to use i reckon. As for making up cooler piping i couldn't physically do it without the car being there to custom fit it cos then i would simply just be able to bend up a one piece pipe rather than have to cut and weld, is much neater and better flowing as there is no inside joins to interupt airflow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jayden_l33
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By jayden_l33 · Posted

      I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...