Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, sorry if this has been covered somewhere - I have done quite a bit of trawling and there is HEAPS of information on building RB30DETs and even information on squeezing the RB30 into an R32 in such a way as to not get clearance issues but I've not found anything specific on the R33 (which obviously has a different engine bay and factory deck height), and I figure there are bound to have been people who have tried here so someone should be able to provide an easy yes/no answer and I am sure someone else would do the same search.

Are there any clearance issues when putting an RB30 bottom end under the stock RB25 head in an R33 GTS25t when retaining the stock plenum/cross over pipe, are there any basic mods to make it work, or is getting a forward facing plenum imperative to making it work?

I quite like my turbo setup etc, the stock plenum and exhaust manifold are definitely capable of making the power I want... I am more looking at the 3litre for reliability (addressing oil control and having a fresh engine as well as the fact the 30s are tough) as well as the obvious huge boost in power delivery of having a 3litre are the big motivators for looking into this as the car is primarily daily driver vs drag/track. The added cost of having to change manifolds, piping etc would sway my decision on whether I'd go RB30 or not.

Cheers,

Lith0r.

PS, I just realised/remembered there is an RB30DET area and this probably should be in there but can't move the post myself ;)

Edited by Lithium

yes there are clearance issues. Yes i have had to change stuff to mine to make it fit with the stock plenum.

No i wont tell you if you cannot search, paypal me $100 and i will give you the information.

Bet that search button is looking like a better option now ?

OK my apologies, I could swear I had read the RB30DET guide and that it talked about space in an R32 GTSt - not an R33. I had another read and it answers my questions perfectly. Maybe I did something blonde like interpreted a useage of "GTST" somewhere as meaning an R32, over here R33 "GTSt"s tend to be referred to as "25T"s. Either way my bad.

Cheers for the help guys

OK my apologies, I could swear I had read the RB30DET guide and that it talked about space in an R32 GTSt - not an R33. I had another read and it answers my questions perfectly. Maybe I did something blonde like interpreted a useage of "GTST" somewhere as meaning an R32, over here R33 "GTSt"s tend to be referred to as "25T"s. Either way my bad.

Cheers for the help guys

Search works quite well then :banana:

I will PM the mods and tell them its working again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...