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Hey just bought and installed a new JJR dump and front pipe on my 33.

Just wondering if anyone else has encountered problems fitting them? I have access to a workshop with hoists etc and went to fit it today only to find that one of the bolts on LH side of the turbo wouldnt go in as it was hitting on the pipe. I expected a bit better quality from a product which ive heard so many good things about?

Also had to remove the main heat shield around the turbo (just to drive home) as it too wouldnt line up and was hitting on the pipe.

Im thinking of getting the oxy out tom. and adjusting the pipe slightly to get the last bolt to fit.

Was wondering if anyone else has had probs with this or has any advice??

Edited by sam0633
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ive got the bell mouth version. went on my 33 s2 with some effort.

took couple of hours, couple of jacks, couple of axle stand and a couple of guys.

yes the nut/blot on the LHS is pretty close to the mouth. we just tightened this one up first with a ring spanner. then tightened the others

finished off the tight one then finished off the others. took about 40 mins to do that, slowly.

i also took the heat shield right off and didnt put it back on.

ive got the bell mouth version. went on my 33 s2 with some effort.

took couple of hours, couple of jacks, couple of axle stand and a couple of guys.

yes the nut/blot on the LHS is pretty close to the mouth. we just tightened this one up first with a ring spanner. then tightened the others

finished off the tight one then finished off the others. took about 40 mins to do that, slowly.

i also took the heat shield right off and didnt put it back on.

yeah i know wat u mean hey, problem is i cant even get the bolt started in the thread, let alone tightened. and yeah i got the bell mouth version too. got very annoying today and after alot of cursing and 3 hours under the car decided to leave it for another day

ya, hrm. its was tricky. we attached the cat end first then one guy above the car pushing hard on the pipe then one under the car with

a ring spanner tightening it up 1/4 turn at a time. until it was tight enough that it was easier to do up.

we were considering hitting it with a few times with a flat edge piece of metal and a hammer, something like the end of a large'ish nail.

but we got it in so didnt need to.

this one thing too the longest to do.

luke a mech will be able to do it in 2 hours easy.

also image attached for more info.

because the pipe bends back in on its self in that spot there is very little room for the bolt to turn, let alone get a spanner or drive on there.

once we got it started it was easy.

post-59171-1236990479_thumb.jpg

ya, hrm. its was tricky. we attached the cat end first then one guy above the car pushing hard on the pipe then one under the car with

a ring spanner tightening it up 1/4 turn at a time. until it was tight enough that it was easier to do up.

we were considering hitting it with a few times with a flat edge piece of metal and a hammer, something like the end of a large'ish nail.

but we got it in so didnt need to.

this one thing too the longest to do.

luke a mech will be able to do it in 2 hours easy.

also image attached for more info.

because the pipe bends back in on its self in that spot there is very little room for the bolt to turn, let alone get a spanner or drive on there.

once we got it started it was easy.

got it all sorted after messing around at my work for a few hours. ended up starting that bolt first while holding the pipe to one side and then yeah doing it up with a spanner about 1/10th of a turn at a time. took ages but got it done. also managed to alter the turbo heat shiled and fitted that back on too. cheers for the advice, heaps happy with the performance too car feels alot quicker :P

i got the same prob, but from a custom made 3inch bellmouth dump/front pipe (may even be the JJR one got it 2nd hand) and the 2 middle bolts on the flange dont wanna go in, the heads of the bolts hit on the pipe, so i cant even get it started let alone fit a spanner on it! there is no leaks the 4 bolts on atm are holding it on fine no probs i just wanna have all 6 in to pass pits if i need to, so ive got some alan-key head ones with a small diameter head i may be able to get in (just cbf and no time lol), so for that bracket on the dump pipe i didnt put mine bak on as it was a bitch to work around it to get the bolts in, but the heatshield is still held on by 1 bolt, yes 1 bolt on the bottom left, the top one snapped, and ive just dummied 2 bolts where its supposed to go on the dump pipe bracket so it looks like its all bolted up if a coppa wants to stick his fat head under my bonnet, its held in place fine just not tightly and i doubt a cop is gonna wanna shake my heatshield with his hands just to check if its on secure.

  • 2 weeks later...

Fitted my JJR bell mouth dump yesterday to my R33 Ser11 was one of the easiest bolt on exhaust upgrades ever,took about 90min from start to finish including removal of old dump/front pipe.I used 2 allen key bolts on the 2 middle holes where it is closest to the pipe no interference problems with this method also wrapped dump pipe from bell to just below firewall with heat wrap,original turbo gaurd and mount for this went back on without having to alter them at all,trick is start all bolts at bell end first then connect collector end and then return to bell end and tighten all bolts in a cross sequence then tighten collector end last.I have fitted many extractors to v8s and you should try fitting a set to a big block chev into a GTR torana talk about dramas like trying toi stuff a size 12 foot into a size 6 shoe.

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