Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i am just fitting some tomei poncams...

is it

10o clock intake, 2 o clock exhaust

however, how many links inbetween the two?? and how do you do Rb26 cas timing also? im not sure.. ive only really done sr20's and commodore cam swap/timing .

any help would be much appreciatd.

thx

There are timing marks for both cams (dots on the black plate behind the cams) that you need to line up with the 'dots' (drilled out small marker holes) on the cam gears.

Likewise on the crank, there is a drilled out 'dot' on the timing belt gear on the crank, and a notch cut out of part of the oil pump housing. Just make usre these are all lined up 100% perfectly before you take the belt off.

As for the number of notches between cam gears, its just really 'tight'. I rotated one of the gears towards the other so it was easier to get the belt on, and then 'tightened' it up by rotating the cam gear back.. was only a couple of mm required to make it easier to get the belt on. Also helps if you have 1 or 2 more people there to help hold the belt in place so it dosen't slip off :blink:

CAS timing is easy. Base timing is 20 degrees. Check the manual for more details, but there is a loop at the rear of the engine at the top for an inductive pickup timing light. Rotate the housing of the CAS to get your base timing right. Do it with the engine off, a bit at a time. Each mark on the harmonic balancer equates to 5 degrees BTDC, and if memory serves the mark all the way on the right side is 30 degrees. Check the manual though.

I recently put poncam Bs in my 32GTR, and the power gains are well worth the expense!

Good luck and have fun :D

i am just fitting some tomei poncams...

is it

10o clock intake, 2 o clock exhaust

however, how many links inbetween the two?? and how do you do Rb26 cas timing also? im not sure.. ive only really done sr20's and commodore cam swap/timing .

any help would be much appreciatd.

thx

Edited by shaund

if its *really* lumpy, it may be that one of your cams is out by a tooth, which IIRC, can be about 10 crank degrees or more!

Given that you're harmonic balancer is back on, you can get TDC from the timing marks on the harmonic balancer, and just take the cam cover off to get things lined up.

I can't remember if there is infact a 0 degrees mark on the harmonic balancer. If theres not, you can have a bit of an estimate. perhaps add some marks yourself. check the manual.

Use a short straight edge to see if the dots on your cam gears are perfectly lined up, and to check the timing mark, im pretty sure you wanna look across the mark

on the timing belt cover 'through' the centre of the crank shaft if you know what i mean.

I also found that the plate behind the cam gears was a little cock-eyed... one cam was slight above, the other was slightly below after re-fitting the timing belt.

Its quite possible that its the CAS needing adjustment, but you'll need a timing light for that anyway. I found 20 degrees on mine was with the CAS pretty much dead centre on the adjustment. a few degrees either side of that shouldn't make your idle overly lumpy though.

My idle is only slightly more lumpy than factory with poncam Bs and no advance/retard on either cam. I'm yet to dial that in... need some dyno time :thumbsup:

Out of interest, did you replace your idler and tensioner bearings for the timing belt?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...