Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

There are no such thing as real and fake semi slick tires.

Essentially anything with a softer compound with less tread blocks then a “street” tire, creating a more flat area for contact on the road, that is/could be used in motor sports is a semi.. Obviously marketing loosely uses the term in brand marketing, however.

Khumo KU36, Federal 595 RS-R, are basically just very sticky street tyres with a few less grooves on them, but are marketed as 'semi slicks'

Compare that to the likes of Toyo R888, Bridgestone RE55, etc which are proper motorsport tyres. The grip levels and behaviour of the tyres are going to be quite different.

little update of what i've been up to all sunday / this arvo before seeing bruno... f**ked up shit.

welding done by yours truly....

14072009152.jpg

gotta check up PCE on my fmic kit.

Khumo KU36, Federal 595 RS-R, are basically just very sticky street tyres with a few less grooves on them, but are marketed as 'semi slicks'

Compare that to the likes of Toyo R888, Bridgestone RE55, etc which are proper motorsport tyres. The grip levels and behaviour of the tyres are going to be quite different.

Sure they are. they are still a semi however.

That's like me saying I believe the Advan A048's to be more of a semi then the Toyo R888's as the "the grip levels and behaviour is different". Which is the case with the Toyo's and Advans..

Big jump in price, as I'm sure we all know.

I guess my main point is tyres designed for motorsport compared to tyres designed for the street. But whatever, its not worth arguing over.

If you run street tyres on the front and something like R888, Re55, A048 on the rear, it will be very unballanced and understeer like a dog when the rears warm up. I know, I tried it with RE55s on the rear one track day.

However, if by 'semi slicks' he means something like the federals or khumos, he can probably get away with it.

with josh? no it probably isnt..

*thinks back to baskins and robbins incident..

:blink:

Seeing I’ve been involved with competitive race cars, probably not.

I’m not sure why anyone would be running a street tire up front and a semi on the rear. You could get away with a semi on the front and a street on the rear, however again not sure why.

I personally am not a fan of mix and matching tires

hows your anti-baller offset treating you josh?

coming out thursday?

Pretty sure I hate narrow wheels.

I might come, depends how I feel. I've been going to bed at like 8:30pm haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...