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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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arent 888s as noisy as shit??? I went in a car that had them at a track day and the buzzed, screw that for a car i drive daily

You'd be an idiot to use them daily

Arent 888s proper semis? If so I would expect them to be real noisy.

Yes

Josh i admire your dedication to grip because i would go mental....because at wakefield there is nowhere you are going anywhere near 200 and it was annoyingly loud through a helmet!

Smash 200 easy at lakeside... even the pintara can do it

@colin: YES! DO IT

need to play more cards.

$300 for rest of S13 stuff $600 turbo kit $83 minispool. Skids!

but still need to pay my fine n shit so a few more casino nights are needed.

you can? its not hard to learn to play and you don't have to be that good to beat the casino game. Just gotta be careful.

the speed 2 is the update version of the speed which is a update of the sprint v. i cant find the speed's in australia.

ive sat in a sprint v and its very close to the bride zeta. and for half the price you cant go wrong, and the material feels stronger.

if you want i could en-quire about them for you?

Would be much more interested in the R100s. I just like the speeds better for the updated color pattern. need black with red.

wish i could just go to the casino to pay for cool shit

+ 1

...but i don't gamble...

Edited by Isola
you can? its not hard to learn to play and you don't have to be that good to beat the casino game. Just gotta be careful.

I'm never willing to lose big so i never win big :happy:

I've come out ahead more times than i've come out behind though :blink:

Going back on tyres for a bit.

Bridgestone RE001's are a great tyre, not the best wearing thing in the world but still a great tyre. It all depends on where the RE001 is made, some are made in japan and pretty much since the start of the year anything out of jpn has gone through the roof in way of tyres it will cost a shit load, if its aussie made re001 it will be cheap.

The Re050 and Re050a are shit and dont waste your money.

Ku31's and 595's are about equal, both great tyre for the cash.

Ku36's tread wear is a 180, so roughly the same as the Re001, pirelli pzero corsa and other good street rubber.

Another good tyre is the Michelin Pilots Sport or PP2 about a 200 tread wear, good in the wet and dry, and also very quite on the highway, not a V tread pattern so it is good. I ran these for about 20,000km with a couple of track days in there too, drove them until they had no tread pattern at all and they still gripped ok.

As for proper semi slicks? 12 months ago i got 225/50 R16 Bridgestone RE55's for $240 each fitted brand new, same place same tyre today is $440. 16's aren't the cheapest tyre to buy anymore, found i can get some 17's and 18's cheaper in the 55's. I ran with them on the street for a while too.

What i am hearing is that the Dunlop Direzza is a nice tyre. Also the R888's i am yet to try either of these. I have also driven on Advan A048's and they were pretty good. Wouldnt mind seeing what the Kumho V70a's are like, about the same price as the dunlop and bridgestone

If you got lots of money to spend, Pirelli Pzero and Michelin Cup is the place to lay your gold. Driven on both, nice tyre, don't last long at all. 30 lap race on the Pirelli and they were blistered and dead. The car drove from the valley to QR, raced and drove back to the valley.

Apart from that, i had a shit night at indoor soccer, we lost

we played some private boys school fag team, seriously must have been gay, they kept hold onto us.

I got a penalty against me for shoulder charging, the guy deserved it though, sent him 5 metres across the field. Ref laughed at it

CoLin no ring....me feel sad :'(

Thursday night maybe ey Col!!!!?? Don't have to work on Friday do you :)

Whos a drag racing expert? I'm a corners man, but heading out tonight for some T&T funsies.

What pressure should i crack in the rear tyres?

And what RPM should I set up for my launch control? I think I'm gonna start with about 4000 and see how it goes

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  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
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