Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

okay noobs.

Electrical is far better then a mechanical boost gauge. And no electrical doesn't mean that the gauge lights up its to do with the sender. defari if you go with tristans sugestion and order a autogauge electronic boost gauge you'll be more than happy and we should be able to work you out a good price 10% discount on rrp.

the gauge im referring you to is:

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=400&page=1

270 stepper motor = type of motor, with 270 degrees motion

peak recall = this recalls the max boost you hit during a drive, great for tuning you t-piece.

bang for buck you cannot go wrong, but if you have loads of cash by all means get defi's.

What can you do? Want to do? Dont care?

At the moment not really fussed hey. What I WANT to do, is pannel beating/spray painting. What I can do is a great range of things because I've done a bit of everything over the years. I just want the dollars rollin' in yo :):happy:

broad minded persons!

have to come to my shop today to have a beer with me!

pffft, as if drink that women's nectar :down:

Mechanical ftw

uhhhh... you might be thinking about analogue vs digital, brah :)

huh?

kevin you're killing me, electronic owns

+1

electronic ALWAYS better than mechanical (y)

+1

Rather do some research about the companies that make it if u want a more spot on accurate gauge..

Defi aka Nippon seki has been in the watch industry alot longer and thus more accurate guage

if u want cheap shit that looks like defis but not the real deal... more wiring and more hassle.. be like 32 dave and buy autogauge..

if u want less wiring, easier plug and play more accurate reading then defi is the way to go..

everyone will have their own thoughts..

Rather do some research about the companies that make it if u want a more spot on accurate gauge..

Defi aka Nippon seki has been in the watch industry alot longer and thus more accurate guage

if u want cheap shit that looks like defis but not the real deal... more wiring and more hassle.. be like 32 dave and buy autogauge..

if u want less wiring, easier plug and play more accurate reading then defi is the way to go..

everyone will have their own thoughts..

yes defi are the shit,

and after them apexi and blitz are the best option

but for our application and bang for buck - autogauge is sweet

i mean just looking on nengun now - a defi boost gauge is $225, and that doesnt include the controller, whereas the autogauge is just under $100

it depends on your budget, what you want out of your car, and where you want to take it

Rather do some research about the companies that make it if u want a more spot on accurate gauge..

Defi aka Nippon seki has been in the watch industry alot longer and thus more accurate guage

if u want cheap shit that looks like defis but not the real deal... more wiring and more hassle.. be like 32 dave and buy autogauge..

if u want less wiring, easier plug and play more accurate reading then defi is the way to go..

everyone will have their own thoughts..

autogauge has been in the game for a long time. and there not cheap shit. when you say more wiring and more hassle, doesn't sound like you'v had much to do with this series of gauge, they make shit very easy, it'd be less wiring then the defi's considering they need that control box. autogauge consist of getting power to 1 gauge and then it loops in and out through plug in wiring harness, then all you need is the sensor and the wire going to the sensor, i don't see how that's more hassle ???

sweet, i was gonna go and get one of those crappy sabre ones from autobarn for like 80 bucks, but yeah if you guys recommend the auto gauge ill go with that..

not looking to go big hp car, keeping it stock but just wanting to know what boost its running as it has a manual controller, not sure what its boosting at the moment..

Thats nengun's prices.. have u even bothered to look else where??

if ur not willing the spend the money.. then go buy some sabers.. cheap pos like autometer..

LOL

GL for accuracy too

Blitz and apexi guages are just like omori guages.. good but not that great..just wiring slapped togehter and sealed with braneded logo..

prob 10-12psi would sit nice, depends do u want an excuse for a new turb? Its just trial and error with the t-pieces, start low and wind you way up and use the gauge to tell you were u sit.

autogauge has been in the game for a long time. and there not cheap shit. when you say more wiring and more hassle, doesn't sound like you'v had much to do with this series of gauge, they make shit very easy, it'd be less wiring then the defi's considering they need that control box. autogauge consist of getting power to 1 gauge and then it loops in and out through plug in wiring harness, then all you need is the sensor and the wire going to the sensor, i don't see how that's more hassle ???

What are u two doing.. blowing eachother while sitting next to each other??..

sure autogauge been in the market for a while.. but its just like saying.. yea.. power and spirit products been in the market a long time too..

a control box?

one wire goes into that? and control box goes to a power source?

sounds like u havnt touch that either..

You do realise Autometer and Autogauge are owned and made by the same people in the US "Autometer" Just happens to have a huge range of gauges no matter your budget.

Have you even looked at their style of guages?

its just like Drift style gauges..

i think your better off going to patch up your shell mate if u want to talk products with me :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...