Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

This keeps my 100% record intact - out of all 7 cars I've owned. I've had 7 alternator problems :)

I can has a spare alternator if you need...

P.S. - Martin & Dan: Is Saturday or Sunday better for you guys?

Not sure yet. Find out what works for Dan and I'll try to work around it.

Also - I need to know what to buy so we have everything there. I'll do a Jay Car or Tandy run once the car is registered and get any switches/wire/fuses that we'll need.

Kill switch

-Black wire

-Switch

Drift switch (I think, still need to research how to actually acheive this)

-Black wire

-Switch

Alarm

-Probably nothing, if its BNIB, it will come with wire etc

Head unit

-Probably nothing, if its BNIB, it will come with wire etc

Amp

-suitable amp wiring kit

Speakers

-You may need speaker wire, if the car still has stock speakers, and you are not replacing them, and they have not already been re-wired without a common ground. 32s may not use a common ground anyway, but 31s do. I wouldn't buy any: if we need some we'll go for a run

General

-Solder

-Heatshrink (size - maybe 3mm? a little bit thicker that the wire you buy)

-Rum/Beer

-JB

-Air Con

...Theres probably stuff I've forgotten, wait for dan to chip in

Air con is a must, I have an airconed garage....I have been loving it of late, having the door closed can lead to poor lighting though :)

and your assumptions about the drift switch are right, thats all i used in the GTR

I can has a spare alternator if you need...

Thanks for the offer but it seems like they want to use the one that's in there because it's a good one. It's just putting out too much power when the car is revved, so it needs to be fixed up somehow, but apart from that is good.

Not sure yet. Find out what works for Dan and I'll try to work around it.

No worries

Kill switch

-Black wire

-Switch

switch and or button?

Drift switch (I think, still need to research how to actually acheive this)

-Black wire

-Switch

just an on/off toggle thingy? or a special kinda switch?

Alarm

-Probably nothing, if its BNIB, it will come with wire etc

Alarm is sorted - one less hassle :)

Head unit

-Probably nothing, if its BNIB, it will come with wire etc

It has plugs and stuff... I tried to work it out but there's too many damn cables. Doesn't look like the Nissan plug connects up either... So I'm guessing cut and solder?

Amp

-suitable amp wiring kit

At least that's nice and easy :)

Speakers

-You may need speaker wire, if the car still has stock speakers, and you are not replacing them, and they have not already been re-wired without a common ground. 32s may not use a common ground anyway, but 31s do. I wouldn't buy any: if we need some we'll go for a run

The ones that are in there are blown - from the alternator. I've got some 6 inch pioneer splits with tweeters (and crossovers). We should be able to get them into the front doors fine. I'm going to pick up some 6x9s or 7x10s for the rear once I've got some wheels under me.

General

-Solder

-Heatshrink (size - maybe 3mm? a little bit thicker that the wire you buy)

-Rum/Beer

-JB

-Air Con

Currently have no access to JB and not sure if 32 AC works until the alternator problem is rectified. Will these things be an issue?

...Theres probably stuff I've forgotten, wait for dan to chip in

*waits*

Edited by Isola

I want a switch to kill the rear number plate light!

Just noticed that 34GTT (57NGR) that I saw last weekend when I'm on my way back from the coast has that (I saw his plates before we went on M1 and just when we're having a bit of fun, its off!)

Hahaha... of course I know you'll get slammed and its not legal. But hey I love to have one but in reality, will I get one? No. :)

I'm all legal! Just look at my 4WD boat.

Yeah, I'm only there for brief moments.

Usually if I have a car to drop off for tuning or if Whitey needs help looking at his 19yo sex kitten photos

Oi you love looking at them dan don't lie.

whitey

FAIL @ SPACERS john, hows the 32 coming?

PURE RIM MOTHER f**kERS 17x9.5+15 all round, started rolling the lip in at the rear, getting close to legal :)

PB180002.jpg

PB180003.jpg

PB180004.jpg

Gah, NizzPro is lame >.< I ask them about a ECU/TUNE & they took my cars details down (What is has other then standard) said they would give me a call back in halfa, and they haven't called me back, its now been a week! ... Like wtf kents!

Meh, I will just go else where, tools!

I want a switch to kill the rear number plate light!

Just noticed that 34GTT (57NGR) that I saw last weekend when I'm on my way back from the coast has that (I saw his plates before we went on M1 and just when we're having a bit of fun, its off!)

lol - that is all

You kinda need a fast car to back it up though. It's one thing to be able to turn off the light but it's another to have the red highway car up your arse going "What's this idiot doing? He can't outrun us"

Oi you love looking at them dan don't lie.

whitey

I never said I didn't but you're an arse if she doesn't attend the dyno day.

Especially as I've seen her practically naked.

I want a switch to kill the rear number plate light!

Just noticed that 34GTT (57NGR) that I saw last weekend when I'm on my way back from the coast has that (I saw his plates before we went on M1 and just when we're having a bit of fun, its off!)

Tee hee hee. I've got one that does that.

But it kills the tail lights too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...