Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Hard suspension, lots of negative camber, Mechanical diff and ages old rock hard second hand rubber is the formula for doing a fully sick skid bro

What qualifies as 'hard' suspension? Coilovers? Or could you get away with simply lowered springs + adjustable sway bars etc etc?

Probs going to head to BNR meet on thurs even though GT-R is sick.

I think they are playing electrophaggotry ( laser tag) instead?

Cool. I had never seen anything like it before, haha.

if you have adjustable suspension set your dampers in the rear to hardest and go for a drive...you will soon see how they do it!

Well I'm a fat bastard and fat bastards like me don't like to run so I might give Pew-Pew-Pew Starship Troopers a miss. However, I'm a fat bastard and fat bastards like me do like Ice Cream so I might come along later to BnR :P

Morning all.

Miso have you got names for them yet?

Pretty sure BNR is still on this week. Electrphaggotry is only for an hour or so and I think we'll be heading to BNR after that which will be around 9ish.

Hopefully I'll have my baby back from the guys at Fulcrum today. Will be good to not have it constantly bottoming out and rubbing on the guards every time I hit a bump or corner at speed.

I'll be at BnR around 9ish tomorrow. Hope to see a few of you there :)

What qualifies as 'hard' suspension? Coilovers? Or could you get away with simply lowered springs + adjustable sway bars etc etc?

sorry didnt see this here before

Coilovers with the dampers wound right down and very low springs would likely do it too, anything that limits travel and absorbing the shock effectively really.

Know much about fixing an effects pedal that won't power on?

It's a korg ax3000g

Dude those korgs are old! I thought my boss gt3 was the oldest thing around lol. Glad I sold that actually. Loving my podxt live :)

ANYWAY...... not really, short of checking/replacing the power supply you could maybe open it up and check around the power jack and the leads going away from it. That's easy enough to do.

Any more than that and I can't really help though :(

with fire

This is probably easier.

Dude those korgs are old! I thought my boss gt3 was the oldest thing around lol. Glad I sold that actually. Loving my podxt live :)

You can still buy them! It's actually a mate of mines, his ball and chain bought him another one cause this one was stuffed.

I would have personally bought something else but women, you know..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...