Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

really?? where at? i will def send the next person i know that needs it done that direction. mine cost me 400 + in parts from Kudos in the first place. belt (gates), water pump, tensioner, pulley, cam and main seals. no oil pump seal.but if it dont leak dont touch it imo.

was quoted locally, between $1500 and $2000....lol. nooo ty. hence doing it myself. but for $800 i would have contemplated letting someone else do it.

Clicky here my good friend

  • Like 1

sweet. thats a good price. really not worth doing it yourself for that. i know where im going next time i need any work done on my boat. :thumbsup:

A full 100k service might set you back $1500-$2000 depending on the oils/parts used but certainly not for a belt and water pump change. $400 is pretty cheap for timing kit and water pump, I don't know if Kudos would still be able to do those prices as all the water pumps went up in price aftermarket and they are still a lot dearer genuine. The timing kits are still the same as they always were.

A full 100k service might set you back $1500-$2000 depending on the oils/parts used but certainly not for a belt and water pump change. $400 is pretty cheap for timing kit and water pump, I don't know if Kudos would still be able to do those prices as all the water pumps went up in price aftermarket and they are still a lot dearer genuine. The timing kits are still the same as they always were.

true true. i guess i did do oil and filter and air cleaner, and cleaned up the engine a bit and and and and, at the same time. so it would all add up in the long run.

Ahh, hasnt even been a week since rego and i've already gotten a not so random licence check where they don't actually check the licence but look for a turbo. :ermm:

record is 3 times in one week :down:

Ahh, hasnt even been a week since rego and i've already gotten a not so random licence check where they don't actually check the licence but look for a turbo. :ermm:

record is 3 times in one week :down:

I got stopped all the time in my DC5 Integra. Yet to be stopped in my 34...

Yet to be pulled over, or even had a second look. Could be due to when and where i drive, but i think its mostly because the car's bog stock.

Still debating which way to go on the timing belt. Price for getting it done is good, but i wouldn't mind learning a bit and saving a little bit of money, but of course then there's the extra hassle.

Edited by sneakey pete

Morning post.

Can some one give me a playing contract so I can go out and muck up and get kicked out of the club. Oh and still get paid out $1mil on leaving.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • This. The R34 handbrake icon DOES come up when the brake fluid level is low. You might be sitting right on that threshhold. I have been down this diagnosis path and this was the solution (and it was pretty much as full as your picture is to begin with).
    • Unfortunately the cavaet to that is that while any scan tool should be able to read the code, the workshop will need a consult plug to OBD socket adapter. You don't have a location on your profile, where are you based?
    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
×
×
  • Create New...