Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

on another note, one of my old skylines is for sale again...

they changed the turbo, plenum, plumb back the SSQV & that's it...

why change a GT30/40 to a GT35/40 is beyond me???

it makes less power now then when I owned it, it would be far less responsive also...

http://www.carsales....mode%20matchany

It's very yellow.

At least you'd spot it if it were ever stolen.

John, I was looking at novated leases today (come permanent for us, we'll drop your pay rate by 10k but hey you can get a novated lease through us!) and they have fully maintained lambo's starting around the 18k per month mark.

4000th Post Mangs. I'd like to thank...nah f**k it.

Finally got on a computer instead of trying to use the forum from my phone. To add to this:

I'm looking at (in no particular order):

VW

Alfa

Jag

Volvo

So not really just Naziland and Pizzaland. I just couldn't be assed typing that much on my phone.

This is partly why I was wanting to do a FF vs FR pros and cons list, but then I decided I've owned both before and never really had any problems with either. And really, when it comes down to it, as a 95% of the time street car, it's probably not going to make much difference.

In the meantime, if anyone hears of someone wanting a 32... if they're paying enough for me to go out and buy another car straight away then I'll sell it. Otherwise I'll keep saving and sell the 32 when I'm ready to buy something else.

Get a Jag and a tweed jacket and then you can smoke a pipe and nobody will think anything of it.

on another note, one of my old skylines is for sale again...

they changed the turbo, plenum, plumb back the SSQV & that's it...

why change a GT30/40 to a GT35/40 is beyond me???

it makes less power now then when I owned it, it would be far less responsive also...

http://www.carsales....mode%20matchany

Bigger turbo = more style points on NFS.

It's very yellow.

At least you'd spot it if it were ever stolen.

John, I was looking at novated leases today (come permanent for us, we'll drop your pay rate by 10k but hey you can get a novated lease through us!) and they have fully maintained lambo's starting around the 18k per month mark.

I love playing with those novated lease calculators. 997 GT2 RS for 10k/month :cheers:

Anna and I talked about leasing a car for her business when she finishes...from those calculations it looks like we would be better off having a loan and getting a used one.

Anna and I talked about leasing a car for her business when she finishes...from those calculations it looks like we would be better off having a loan and getting a used one.

I have spoken to lots of people about leasing. Unless you earn more than $77k pa it's not really worth it and your better off with a normal car loan. Leasing is only good for tax reasons, but you need to pay enough in tax to make it worth while in the same hand

I see my cars come up for sale from time to time. My very first R32 back when I was 16 I saw only a few months ago on car sales! Blast from the past, had a million trillon kays lol

best mod for a jag is to replace the engine with something not found on a ship and then rewire it, full of Lucas the dark prince wiring. Oh lease vehicles would have to be the worst thing, we deal with them all the time, they will only let you do the least amount of servicing possible and they won't always fix problems, even if they are safety related.

John if you get an alfa.... you have my number. Also make sure you have RACQ membership, ultra care spec. Actually anything euro have RACQ

I have spoken to lots of people about leasing. Unless you earn more than $77k pa it's not really worth it and your better off with a normal car loan. Leasing is only good for tax reasons, but you need to pay enough in tax to make it worth while in the same hand

And also if you can manage to sell the car at a higher price comparing to the balloon at the end of the lease.

Surprisingly we had someone coming in to talk about it this week. I still dont quite understand the whole FBT thing. But looks like you're paying tax instead of paying the bank interest.

I have spoken to lots of people about leasing. Unless you earn more than $77k pa it's not really worth it and your better off with a normal car loan. Leasing is only good for tax reasons, but you need to pay enough in tax to make it worth while in the same hand

If we do it in my name it would be on more than 77k salary, if we did it on Annas, who knows at this point! but she has her heart set on a swift as the business car so in reality either way just going and buying the thing works out better, a brand new one is under 20k. Unless it is the sport which is like 24k new.

Actually what else is there that is 'good' that is a similar style to a swift, must be hatchback so the seats can be folded down so all of Annas make up stuff can fit must be at least a little bit fun, Ie no carollas.

If we do it in my name it would be on more than 77k salary, if we did it on Annas, who knows at this point! but she has her heart set on a swift as the business car so in reality either way just going and buying the thing works out better, a brand new one is under 20k. Unless it is the sport which is like 24k new.

Actually what else is there that is 'good' that is a similar style to a swift, must be hatchback so the seats can be folded down so all of Annas make up stuff can fit must be at least a little bit fun, Ie no carollas.

There would be no tax advantage if done under your name - And as Brandon said balloon payment etc.

Ideally buy it/finance it as a normal loan and try and put commercial rego on it (not hard I know someone with a C63 in real estate who did it). You can offset some loan/interest repayments against tax.

You will have to check with your accountant if you can claim loan/interest repayments on tax under normal rego – Last time I asked it was no, however all normal running costs claimable as per normal.

What about a Polo or Jetta? They aren’t a huge amount of money

There would be no tax advantage if done under your name - And as Brandon said balloon payment etc.

Ideally buy it/finance it as a normal loan and try and put commercial rego on it (not hard I know someone with a C63 in real estate who did it). You can offset some loan/interest repayments against tax.

You will have to check with your accountant if you can claim loan/interest repayments on tax under normal rego – Last time I asked it was no, however all normal running costs claimable as per normal.

What about a Polo or Jetta? They aren’t a huge amount of money

yeah considered both of those, they seem pretty dear for what they are though, whats a polo GTI cost?

Wow, exchange synch actually works well on this phone. Stoked.

Actually what else is there that is 'good' that is a similar style to a swift, must be hatchback so the seats can be folded down so all of Annas make up stuff can fit must be at least a little bit fun, Ie no carollas.

Golf R32. Or whatever they're selling instead of them these days... :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...