Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Erm... whats the exact plan? This week or next? Either way I wouldnt be able to make it to your place by 11. Maybe meet you guys up the mountain.

dear tristan... wish u had my rims ???

l_f119d5bd7ab84043969c986dd83031d5.jpg

they are the secks i will admit - however i have 4 stud fail - so ill go the cheaper option - doriteks :whistling:

f**king love that front offset ;)

and colin im a no bro - uni is ramming me and its starting to bleed

sorry :(

Hurrah, just got call from just cars. Time to get that dent fixed. Dropping it off early tomorrow morning :(

good to hear buddy ;)

get the old girl fixed up - and then manual conversion :whistling:

Looks like I've been outvoted lol. Next week it is lol. Will talk times n stuff next thursday then to suit everybody.

i have 2 here, lol. im sure itll all work out in the end. not sure if i wana sell it thoe, due to nistune / rb25. or i may as-well just get a z32 ecu to retain vct, or whatever the story is. neway ill be around on the we breh.a

an rb20det ecu will not run an rb25, even if it is chipped, unless nistune had worked out how too??

FYI rb25 ecu's are chippable...

Z32 ecu wouldnt work as 300zx motor's arent VCT

Looks like I've been outvoted lol. Next week it is lol. Will talk times n stuff next thursday then to suit everybody.

hahaha damn them, i reorganised my girls for the weekend and everything... ahh well. I'll RE reorganise it haha. Gold Coast was good :)

an rb20det ecu will not run an rb25, even if it is chipped, unless nistune had worked out how too??

FYI rb25 ecu's are chippable...

Z32 ecu wouldnt work as 300zx motor's arent VCT

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...hl=rb25+nistune

as boz said, you can't put a nistune in the r33 board. you can either use a z32 ecu or a r32 ecu. with the r32 you lose the VCT though

is that right or wrong ? might email nistune, what other chips can i use on a 25 ecu ?

NIStune Type 6 Board (TBD)

r33_ecu_daughterboard.jpg

We are thinknig about doing a board for R33 RB25DE/RB25DET but it involves a fair amount of work, and the parts to interface with the existing 84 pin MCU on this ECU. It is a very difficult board to get started on and requires whole new firmware code to be implemented, whilst supporting customers with our existing product line. I will start drafting schematics once Type 5 has been finished and we have got the knock sensing functionality working.

If you are looking for something to get these going then we suggest either using a HCR32 Skyline or Z32 300ZX ECU with a Type 2 board. See our FAQ topics for more information regarding these ECUs.

Your other option, if you really want to use the R33 ECU is to use an emulator with an expensive third party daughter board (pictured above) available from Sam at

www.drdrift.com.au

you kents should be awake working on cars. im starting on mine in 15 lol epic

Been in work for an hour already lazy carnts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...