Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As topic states:

losing cylinder(s) when parked outside in the current Sydney weather for 6 hours on an otherwise stock ECR33. after a while (quite a while) & some heat it comes good. The plugs are newish and the Datto has never missed a beat.

Are S1 RB25's prone to this ??

has anyone else experienced this ??

It's kinda spooked me...:)

Any help would be greatly appreciated:D

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26127-help-losing-a-cylinder-in-the-rain/
Share on other sites

They aren't particularly prone to it, but it sounds like a fairly common condensation problem that can affect any car. Check the coil pack wiring, maybe take it off and use some emery to remove oxidization and spray some wd40 in. Check the igniter too if you have one (early series 1).

Problem solved !

Checked the spark "oldskool" - laying the coil assembly on its side with an old set of plugs. gave it a crank & identified two that weren't firing. I then swapped the location of the suspect coils ( to rule out the possibility of loom or ECU being at fault). Then the sight of six little blue sparks:D:cool:

What I learned was that by doing this diagnosis first the offending coil(s) can be identified and isolated in very little time, and also that the coils appear to be verrrry sensitive.

Hope this info saves someone some time & headache...

Yup, adam's spot on. it'll sound like a WRX just off idle & runs about as bad as an engine can without stalling !

Swapping the pos of the coils on the alloy mount... well I'm dead certain the moisture was between the coil & mount and that by simply removing/inspecting/cleaning/silicone spraying/replacing (with sighted good ones) the known faulty ones came good !!

Also I eyeballed the sus coils arcing (up to 12mm !!) to the alloy mount from their bases which was a bit of a giveaway.

I reckon seeing is believing, & there's been a lot of threads about coil pack testing involving swapping coils and tossing the failing ones. So how many perfectly good ones get tossed !!

Using the "Crank & Eyeball" test, if the coil is good you should see a spark, but NOT necessarily at the plug electrode !

If no spark do the GraemeW test. Many have questioned the validity of this test, but if it fails it's well & truly dead. I know from searching these forums that other members coils' have passed the resistance test but got binned anyway, consequently the rumour exists that this test is unreliable - methinks not !!

P.S. I gapped the plugs to .75mm and no more miss under load @4500rpm above 8-9 PSI with stock ECU. Jay95 posted about this in another thread & I give it the full thumbs up.. gap 'em down with confidence.

Oh, and the car runs better than it ever has on higher boost too !!

The PFC on my desk goes in soon, so I'm looking forward to more mayhem !

Hope I save someone some headf%ck !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...