Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey got a progress shot of the old wastegate pipe cut and the new ones tacked into place its looking good just going to check fitment cut them down and then weld in a slight bend to follow the line of the front pipe so we don't run any clearance issues, i am also going to have them ceramic coated to help with the heat sink any one that has fitted the Just Jap dumps will know they run awfully close to the inlet of the rear turbo.

post-39639-1237286402_thumb.jpg

post-39639-1237286510_thumb.jpg

post-39639-1237286584_thumb.jpg

i started, turned into being a pain so i just gave up waisted that much time on them couldnt really see the point for minimal to no power gain.

but good luck oh and i had issues with the front dump screamer hitting the rear turbo inlet

yeah that's why we are getting it ceramic coated it touches ever so slightly so i don't want any heat sinking action might have to take a few mm off just to make sure yeah only reason im doing it is because Ive got n1 turbos and for my application they are perfect no need to blow useless amounts of cash on some shit big single setup when response is my main goal so i still wanted the screamer sound and before the flame session about the sound starts ill be the judge when its done and if i don't like ill plumb them back into the exhaust thanks

  • 3 weeks later...

i will have the pipes back from the ceramic coater on thurs will post some pics up then and i must say the worst part of the job is getting them to seal in the back of the turbo spent countless hours making sure they will not leak and we are also going to run some extremely high temp sealant in the housing to make sure i don't have an annoying exhaust leak sound at idle or increased revs

well i would like external gate but that would mean having a non stock look and i have been trying to make this engine look as standard as possible as i don't need any crap from the police i drive it prob once a week and any thing high mount or manifolds being changed is a dead giveaway that something aint right so this seemed the only way to do it i just wanted the sound to be honest with out the risk and if something does happen then just wack the stock dumps back on and away we go . yeah we made sure they weren't touching but i just did the ceramic coating as a second measure to make sure not too much heat is being transferred to the intake pipe and to surrounding areas of the engine bay im getting a second set of manifold shields done as well im kinda paranoid about the whole heat transfer thing i might try doing up a intercooler water spray kit as well out of alloy piping and a remote bottle in the boot any one done this kinda thing before ???

  • 2 weeks later...

I did the exact same thing you guys are doing, Just Jap dumps with long splits. I also spent hours making sure there wasnt going to be any leaks. It paid off. I had NO leaks on idle or while revving and they sound absolutely nuts.

I started a thread on it, its title is Custom Long Split Dumps or something of the like, its in this section.

Im now removing them. I have boost creep due to my super-high flwoing HKS dual exhaust, the gasses would rather exit via the turbine rather than the gate...but they worked fine with my 3.5 single, had no creep whatsoever.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just a thought, was that car and auto at any point of its life? If so, maybe whoever bridged the inhibitor switch/circuit did a not so good job.
    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
×
×
  • Create New...