Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FOrgive my ignorance, but how do you determine if an AFM has maxed out? (Obviously it wouldn't be measuring more airflow when maxed out, but what figure/number on the PFC tells you that it's maxed out)

And also, what do the volts have to do with it, like whne people say 5.1v or 4.9v etc?

Cheers

Edited by Turbz RB-25

Here's another thread pertaining to the AFM's limits - AFM LIMITS

They're similar to the figures I found, but some have gone past the mark. Others can't hit those levels.

I don't know how they've done it but you can obviously push them past their rated levels.

Here's some more interesting reading:

Click 1

Click 2

Click 3

Click 4 (Scroll to title Z32 afm: Wiring and info to fit to rb20det

FOrgive my ignorance, but how do you determine if an AFM has maxed out? (Obviously it wouldn't be measuring more airflow when maxed out, but what figure/number on the PFC tells you that it's maxed out)

And also, what do the volts have to do with it, like whne people say 5.1v or 4.9v etc?

Cheers

The air flow through an afm is output in volts, thats what the volts are for and how you can tell if the afm is maxed out, i think most afm's work on a value between 1-5v once you hitting 5v its maxed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...