Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Have A Spare Clutch Master Cylinder?

Michele

By Michele,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

Michele Veteran

Michele

Posted
Posted

After spending the afternoon making the GTR shite'n'briny for Wheels tomorrow, the master cylinder appears to have shat itself.

So unless someone happens to have a spare floating around and is bored enough to be on the forum... I won't be able to take the GTR tomorrow :)

Michele Veteran

Michele

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Oh that's poo, sorry to hear it :banana:

Did you end up sorting it out?

No, she didn't get to Wheels today. Took the open wheeler though and caught up with the dark side... drooled over Bobs R35 for a while :P Reece had a grin from ear to ear after driving Bobs R34 :banana: saw Mick and we didn't fight once :down:

It was a great day and good to catch up with so many.

Now its time to order in a master cylinder... any suggestions as to where is the best place to get it from?

OZR32GTR Collaborator

OZR32GTR

Posted
Posted
Now its time to order in a master cylinder... any suggestions as to where is the best place to get it from?

When my Silvia's master cylinder gave way I ended up getting it re-sleeved, might want to consider that if it's not cheap or readily available. If it's already out a decent Brake place should be able to get it re-sleeved within the day.

Just a thought.

Cheers,

Brad

StinkyPoo Mentor

StinkyPoo

Posted
Posted

You can get rebuild kits or get them rebuilt. I think most brake places can rebuild them, pretty much clean it, bore it and put the rebuild kit threw it (I think, I haven't done one yet). The kit itself is cheap around $30ish. A whole brand new PBR cylinder is around $240, I'm not sure about the nissan one but someone said it was cheaper (????).

Michele Veteran

Michele

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What seems to be the problem with the cylinder Michele?

Started with the clutch feeling as if it wasn't taking up until almost half way, Mark thought he would bleed it, but noticed what looked like dirty fluid coming back up into the reservoir (which is weird) so decided to completely flush it out... then with new fluid in, even with all bleed screws open, it wouldn't pump fluid through lines, as I pumped the clutch the fluid in the cylinder would drop a little then raise again the same amount i.e. no fluid would actually leave the reservoir. We tried for an hour or longer and couldn't get it pump the fluid through.

Are the rebuilds as reliable as replacing the unit? Noticed they are $320 at Just Japs atm.

TURISMO Experienced

TURISMO

Posted
Posted
No, she didn't get to Wheels today. Took the open wheeler though and caught up with the dark side... drooled over Bobs R35 for a while :blink: Reece had a grin from ear to ear after driving Bobs R34 :) saw Mick and we didn't fight once :)

It was a great day and good to catch up with so many.

Now its time to order in a master cylinder... any suggestions as to where is the best place to get it from?

this is a low pixel photo of me from today ==> :laugh:

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

Sounds a lot like what happened to my VL, was blabbing about it to Mark the other night I think, though was just on the subject of having to drive without a clutch.

If you haven't already, and could be bothered, take the entire master cylinder off and dismantle it. I can't quite remember what spring it was, but there was a large spring inside that had actually broken into 3 pieces. Unfortunately I didn't get much of a chance to learn how it all worked, but without the resistance of the spring until the pedal was almost fully pushed to the floor, there was no pumping of the fluid. Also once it did actually pump the tiny bit at the end, it would appear to just flow back through to the reservoir.

If this is exactly what's happened with yours, PM, reply or call me (0431391359) and I'll find out where we picked up the replacement spring from.

There's a good chance your situation has nothing to do with what I just said above, but hey, it's always possible and worth a shot, especially if you're just going to replace the unit anyway :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...