Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Swap And Identification Issues. Please Help

abulurd

By abulurd,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

abulurd Rookie

abulurd

Posted
Posted

Hello everyone. I have been lurking around here for a while now, this forum is good help for working on my cars but now I am hoping to find some specific help

I have 2 R33 skylines one manual and one Auto

The auto turbo went "ping-rattle" on me one morning around 220,000 KM and started blowing massive plumes of white-grey smoke. Turns out that the "ping-rattle" was the exhaust spool shooting out my exhaust pipe :( Took it to a performance guy to fix it and he suggested upgrade at same time coz it would cost same money. I was pretty noob to turbos at the time (still am really) so I have no idea what he put on there.

Recently my auto trans started slipping between 2nd and 3rd and was going to cost 2 grand for rebuild so I bought a manual instead.

Guy I bought the manual off told me that he had very recently had a 2nd hand turbo put on there because his previous one was making bearing noises.

Bear with me, I am getting to the heart of my problem(s)

I decided to swap the new rebuilt turbo off my auto onto my new manual car. In the process of doing so I discovered some things. The feed lines (all of them except oil return) did not fit on the rebuilt turbo from my auto, so I had to swap all the lines as well. Another thing I discovered was the rebuilt turbo has an alloy riser on it at the oil feed as the feeder bolt would not fit into standard hole there.

The problem is, now that I have the upgraded turbo fitted to my manual, It does not seem to be boosting as well as it did on my auto. It spools up but doesn't really seem to give you that kick in the ass you would expect and it is comming on rather late (4500-5000 rpm) where as the turbo I took off the manual was kicking in around 3000-3500 rpm which is earlier than the turbo that originally went ping on me in the auto which used to kick in around 3500-4000 rpm.

So I am now left wondering a number of things.

Assuming the original turbo on the automatic was stock:

1. Is the turbo I took off the manual a smaller turbo from a different engine?

2. What size turbo am I now running on my manual?

3. Is there a difference between the housings for manual and auto turbos

4. Are auto and manual ECU's interchangeable? Maybe the bigger turbo worked better for the auto because of different computer settings.

I put a boost tap on today to see if I could get it boosting better and I did get increased boost had it almost up to 700 mmHG which is around 13PSI. Started pinking quite bad so didn't do that for long. But it wasn't kicking in any earlier and still wasn't giving you that kick in the arse feeling. (EG. I used to be able to slide the arse out in 2nd on boost in the auto but cannot do that now I have swapped that turbo onto the manual because boost is comming on way too late and not strong enough)

I am now lost.

The turbo I took off the manual has 16V stamped on the intake side and x293 and 040 stamped on the exhaust side. Checked these numbers on google and didn't get any meaningfull results. Does anyone know if these numbers are for the standard turbo housings?

I am going to try and find out what the mechanic did when he rebuilt/upgraded my auto turbo but it was nearly 2 years ago so he may not remember. I tried to see the numbers stamped on that but they are in awkward place and I dont want to get dirty tonight so I will post them tomorrow or something if I can't get any info from the mechanic.

If anyone can help with the turbo numbers I have supplied I would be very grateful, and also some suggestions on the boost issue would be rather helpful as well

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...