Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTS-T 4 Door Skyline Manual – Blown Motor - WHITE

Hi Guys, I am gaining interest on selling my sky. Either parting out or selling as a whole. The car has had thousands spent, and been built up for drift.

Recently it has had an accident, rear left C pillar is dented, and door sill is bent in. The car drives completely straight and is only cosmetic.

Recently the motor has let go, either a blown bottom end or fried piston rings, its running very rough and blowing allot of smoke.

This car would suit someone with time and knowledge to replace the engine, all the supporting mods are there, an RB20 block wouldn’t cost you much its a mater of time and effort.

The engine made 210rwkw on the supporting mods listed below.

If I can sell as a whole I will, otherwise I will part out, at this stage I am gaining interest.

Car is rego and complied. No RWC, but I have all stock parts that can be included in the sale.

Price $8000.00

Price is negotiable in terms of what comes with the car, if i don’t get any interest I will part out.

Location: South Eastern Suburbs Melbourne

Modifications include:

Engine: Serviced reguarlly, not that it matters now, but everything is looked after, all the support mods are still there for anyone who buys this package.

· RB20DET (Blown...yet to confirm exactly)

· Rb25 GCG Highflow turbo (less then 15000km)

· GCG 16psi actuator

· Sard 650cc Injectors

· Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator

· Z32 AFM

· Custom Intake/cold air AAA Pod filter

· Cusco Catch can

· Adjustable cam gears

· Gates Timing belt

· Gready FMIC

· Splitfire coilpacks

· Turbotech boost controller

Gearbox/Driveline:

· Standard RB20 Box

· Brand new Redline fluid, less the 100km old

· Short shifter

· Nightworks Urathane Gearbox mount

· Welded Diff

Suspension/Brakes:

· Coilovers; Buddy Club front, and JIC rear

· Front Nismo strut brace

· CUSCO rear strut brace

· Alloy rear sub frame bushes

· Urathane upper control arm bushes (front)

· DBA 4000 slotted rotors Brand new less then 300km (front and rear)

· QFM A1RM 650 degree hi temp pads, (front and rear) less then 300km

· HICAS completely removed, lock bar and all solenoids and lines removed

Interior:

· Cusco full cage 6 point with harness bar, (currently just running half cage but rest will be included)

· Rear trims + seats removed but will be included

· Drift handbrake button

· Autogauge gauges: Water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, air/fuel and boost.

· Golf Ball shift knob

· Pioneer CD/MP3 headunit

· Pioneer 6x9 rear speakers

· Momo deep dish steering wheel (same dimensions as nardi deep corn)

Body:

· GTR Bonnet

· Top Secret Grill

· White

The car if sold complete will come with all stock and remaining spare parts. I bought this car stock and have nearly everything that has been repaced. Just off the top of my head this will include:

· Bonnet

· Suspension/spair disk rotors

· Stock wing

· Stock trims

· Stock engine parts inc, turbo, AFM, injectors, SMIC

· Airconditon lines/condsor/unit

In addition to the above, the car will also come with the following items not installed on the car.

· Grex Oil cooler and relocation kit

· BnM line locker

· R33 stock wheels x2

· Recaro sr3 recliner bucket seat (no rail)

· GTR Front bar, genuine N1, damaged but repairable

I am sure I have missed a few things, feel free to call my mobile or sms for any questions regarding sale of whole package. Please do not ring or msg about individual items as I am not spiting yet. I am happy for you to express your interest in the forum or via pm for individual parts, however be aware I rather sell this complete and get rid of it completely.

I have genuine reasons for sale. I am starting an apprenticeship and have no time or money to fix this car.

My loss is your gain

n571650285_1113715_1535.jpg

n571650285_1252416_7786.jpg

$8000.00 ONO we can discuss what comes with sale.

0400 200 997

I've got a Virgin RB20DE w/Free Auto for $500 that someone can whack in this car with all the turbo bolts ons.

Its out of the same type of car - R32 4 door. The High comp would make the RB20 a joy to drive off boost :D

PM Me for more info. Genuine 120k kms.

Theres a good chance the engines not blow it could be electrical, I will post up a compression test shortly, just waiting on the tester. I am honestly over it though, and still selling as is. You could be potentially geting a good buy here if the engines fine, I just want it gone.

Bump...still waiting on compression tester, but 85% sure the problem is ignition, ie cas or ignitor. If your interested feel free to do your own tests.

Also if someone buys the rolling shell I will 100% split.

PM with offers.

Rolling shell is negotable depending on what you want...suspension stock or coils, brakes stock or DBA4000/QFM all depends what you want.

I will ONLY split if someone wants a rolling shell.

Few questions people been asking...

Is it Rego?

Yes, reg expires in november.

Does it have gaundor mirrors?

Yes, GK tech ones.

Swaps?

I am oppen but really depends what it is, would rather cash.

Also on another note, I am flexible will lower the price if you dont want all the spares, or I can put some stock parts back on.

can u send me some more pics and pics of damage? where are u from? is it runing all smooth? what was/is wrong with it?

PM Sent, located in Malvern East, Melbounre.

Cheers

Comp tested!

Engine not blown, turbo not blown, spark and fuel...but suspect fuel pump or pressure...

Still for sale, but price is neg.

If I dont sell it will just get fixed slowley, I am about to start trade school so no money, my loss your gain, make an offer.

PMs replied...

open to offers need this gone asap, can sill with our without parts

It can be sold fixed or as is.

Edited by LRyder
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
    • Yeah, Duncan is helping sell me back to Android devices. I've hated the whole Android head units due to their speed issues. Even in my old Hyundai Kona (2022 model), it behind the scenes was Android, and slow and shitty to start up. Once running wasn't bad, but still a good 15 to 30 seconds.
    • My roof rails are off atm on the E39 until the rust is fixed. I did find another little bit of surface rust under the rails when I took them off. As @soviet_merlin said I'd just leave them alone unless you're planning on ensuring they're properly sealed. I was on the fence about leaving them off as the delete is still a thing in BMW E39's but I feel like the car is missing something (er, it is, der) with them off and I'm looking forward to putting them back on.
×
×
  • Create New...