Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I use Royal Purple for my motor oil, dif oil and gearbox oil, no complaints :blink:

Seems to handle track work better than the Castrol Edge I was using before hand, doesn't get black as quickly

Thanx for that mate, it realy give a peace of mind since that i got it in the motor, gearbox, and dif aswell :)

i been using royal purple for the last 7 months and its great you gotta give it time to work though they recommend changing it every 10000k

i work at autobarn in gympie and we sell it for 80 bucks for 5litres its good shit the bees knees in oil (my opinion anyways) :blink:

Yeah but isn't usually recommended to change oil in turbo cars every 5000 K's??? :)

Ok just a couple of things. The Royal Purple that you get for under $100 is a Group IV oil, so compare that to the Motul 8100 which is also Group IV.

If you want to compare the 300V then you can only compare that to the Royal Purple racing oil which is around the same price as 300V, im pretty sure it is a Group V oil, but not 100% sure on that one, will have to speak to the Royal Purple rep next time i see him.

Problem with Royal Purple is that it started getting a great name for it self when Street Commodores did a test on all the oils in the country and Royal Purple won it be a mile stone, all the other brands including Motul performed horribly. Suddenly they got the attention of all the oil companies and they went "Hang on a sec, wtf is going on here!", so they investigated it and a law suit became of it. The problem was Street Commodores used a machine that didn't simulate engine loads on bearings (i believe it was a gearbox load simulator from memory) and that's why all the oils performed so badly. They published a big apology but not many people saw that one, they just remembered Royal Purple dominating it, hence their great reputation began in Aus :)

Nice history lesson for ya.

Nothing wrong with Royal Purple, i sell heaps of it and it's a great oil. If i couldn't buy 300V at my work i would go the Royal Purple 10W40 because Motul don't make a 10W40 in a Group IV oil.

Well before this I was using the 300V and apparently its the same rating as the royal purple, they both have an SL rating is that the rating that you talikng about. because apparently the way oil is rated is by these letters eg. LG, LJ, LS, LM and apparently LM being the best. Please if some1 knows wat I'm talking bout than tell me if it's right or wrong. Caus this is coming from a performance shop owner not me.

the way the oil is designed to work it isn't needed to be changed every 5000k you could still change it that often if you wanted to :D

LOL ok cool cause i use to change it every 5000 km's n now after doin abit of work to the car i benn change it bout every 4000 km's

Well before this I was using the 300V and apparently its the same rating as the royal purple, they both have an SL rating is that the rating that you talikng about. because apparently the way oil is rated is by these letters eg. LG, LJ, LS, LM and apparently LM being the best. Please if some1 knows wat I'm talking bout than tell me if it's right or wrong. Caus this is coming from a performance shop owner not me.

The normal Royal Purple is a group IV oil, not a group V. The Royal Purple XPR Racing oil might be a group V but im not sure. Group V oils are those which use synthetic esters (diesters, polyolesters, alklylated napthlenes, polyglycols etc.) Such as Motul 300V which was the first oil in the world to use double esters.

The ratings on the oil simply say "they meet these ratings or exceed them". These ratings were derived to seperate group I, II, II and IV oils; with IV being the highest. Once esters were created for use in 100% synthetic oils by Motul in 1971 and then again using double esters in 2004 in the form of 300V, they could no longer class them in a group IV because they were above it, therefore group V oils were created.

Edited by PM-R33
The normal Royal Purple is a group IV oil, not a group V. The Royal Purple XPR Racing oil might be a group V but im not sure. Group V oils are those which use synthetic esters (diesters, polyolesters, alklylated napthlenes, polyglycols etc.) Such as Motul 300V which was the first oil in the world to use double esters.

The ratings on the oil simply say "they meet these ratings or exceed them". These ratings were derived to seperate group I, II, II and IV oils; with IV being the highest. Once esters were created for use in 100% synthetic oils by Motul in 1971 and then again using double esters in 2004 in the form of 300V, they could no longer class them in a group IV because they were above it, therefore group V oils were created.

Thats some real good info. thanx man :D

  • 3 weeks later...
I just used it for the first time in my car last week, no complaints at all from me, engine runs nice and smoothly. Where have you seen it for $80 as I paid $100 for mine from AutoBarn :laugh:

yeh i agree, autobarn is a rip off, try to go repco or auto1 or equivilant, save urself money

yeh i agree, autobarn is a rip off, try to go repco or auto1 or equivilant, save urself money

It's always good to save yourself some cash.

N btw alot of people have been complaining lately about auto barn and how much of a rip off they are!! I haven't bought anything from them in a while.

I'll nake sure to shop around next time I wana buy something.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe it's time for a M3 F80 LCI, and leave it stock.  Drive it to a shop, sip on your latte with nutmeg whilst it gets serviced and on the way home swing by and grab some chai mix for the evening.
    • Great work! Thanks for documenting the process.
    • How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.   If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
    • yeah, mechanically, it is probably do-able, off the top of my head, there would be the transfer case, which I believe will bolt up to the rear of the RWD transmission, the shorter rear tail shaft. A front drive shaft, front diff, engine upper sump, front drive shafts, front hubs and front AWD struts (they are shaped around the front drive shafts), LCAs (at the very least from the front suspension) oil cooler.  You might want the rear diff from an AWD too, so you can be certain the front and rear diff rations are identical.  Who knows what brackets and mounts you might need.  So a whole doner car might be the best option if you need to maintain RHD. Then actually making it work, that would be a whole different story.
×
×
  • Create New...