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Hey all, currently having an intermittent fueling problem on my DR30 turbo coupe that's starting to get more frequent and annoying. I'll be driving along or even idling just fine, but then the next minute the fuel pump will stop whirring and the car predictably dies. Switch the ignition off and back on again and the pump can't be heard priming, so the engine won't fire if you turn it over. Repeat this maybe four or five times and finally the pump will kick back into life, and you can continue as normal... until the next time it dies, which could be 100m down the road, or 100km :ermm:

I suspect the fuel pump controller in the boot is starting to crap itself since it's getting very hot to the touch, which probably ISN'T supposed to happen.

as an alternative to scouring the globe for another R30 fuel pump controller (and before I go out and drop $400 on a new bosch pump which may not solve the issue either), does anyone know which of the wires leading to the box can be harnessed for a wire-in relay conversion? Or would anyone have a pinout diagram for it?

any alternative solutions would also be appreciated.

cheers in advance :D

I had several issues with a stock R30 fuel pump After many attempts it took a secondie to fix the prob.

Ghostrider would know if a stock R30/RMR30 or even a VL Commonwhore pump will do the job. One of my R30 currently has a VL pump.

The controller is triggered by the ECU/TPS to run at reduced voltage when the throttle is closed. You can bypass it and run the pump at battery voltage 100% of the time, for a few extra dB of pump noise and a little extra fuel heat...

(which is exactly how my DR is now running with the Haltech ECU).

One point of interest is that the controller may be getting hot because the pump is drawing excessive current, so it may be the pump that's faulty.

I'd suggest that for starters you spend a few minutes bypassing the controller & then see what happens.

Cool, thanks guys. My DR30 sedan runs a Bosch 910 pump which can be bought off the shelf here fairly easily, just need to bear in mind the cost factor.

I'd suggest that for starters you spend a few minutes bypassing the controller & then see what happens.

sounds like a plan. I guess the next question is which wires do I bridge on the plug?

I can't remember the exact pinouts, and don't have a diagram for it. Having said that, it's not hard to work out;

Remove the rear seat squab, and you'll expose the pump wiring going through the floor on the drivers' side.

Trace that back to the controller, and then look for the 12V ign input.

From there (you can also use the pump fuse as a confirmation of the correct 12V source), bridge the input & output wires together at the controller plug & leave the plug disconnected from the controller itself.

The end result should be ign voltage at the pump regardless of throttle position.

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