Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

I've had my R33 GTS-T for a couple of weeks now, mods are turbo back exhaust, pod filter, cold airbox coming soon & R34 gtt SMIC.

The car came with an SAFC but it's not currently hooked up as the previous owner said it wasn't running properly with it connected.

It's currently using around 13L/100km's fuel, i don't know how normal that is but I assume it's running rich cause there's the popping of unburnt fuel out the zorst whenever you take it over 3-4k rpm and then change gears.

so my question: performance & fuel wise is it worth forking out the $150 or so to get it tuned at a workshop with the SAFC? how much difference does it make to performance when you lean out the AFR's?

and yeah i'm aware you don't buy a skyline because of fuel efficiency, i'm just wondering what difference it would make :cool:

cheers

Edited by dnbosiris
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264185-fuel-usage-safc/
Share on other sites

there you will get a good gain overall in terms of power, response, driveability, economy and overall car performance from any sort of tune

wether this is a remap, a complete stand alone solution or a tune of a piggyback system such as the safc

the safc system is bulletproof, cheap and does wonders for a mild GTST (like yours)

tune away, however id reccommend changing to a FMIC instead before you tune it

youll find the SMIC will just get heat soaked and provide little to no cooling of the intake charge once you fit an exhaust and up the boost to around 12psi. also before you get it tuned replace the standard 02 sensor. they die after around 50,000kms ish and the part is about $100

the 02 sensor is solely responsiblie for gettign good fuel economy. with a good setup you can have plently of power and 400km's to tank each time easily

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264185-fuel-usage-safc/#findComment-4518109
Share on other sites

hey paul

I was actually planning a boost increase (bought a turbotech MBC) down the track however I decided to put that off until I can afford a new fuel pump to go with it, in case my 16 yr old stock one isn't up to the task once i up the boost. I was going to do the tune at that point all in one hit but now that I have delayed that I'm wondering if it's worth just getting the tune while on stock boost. From what you say it definitely is. not 100% sure about my o2 sensor but i think it was replaced 6 months ago.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264185-fuel-usage-safc/#findComment-4518134
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...