Jump to content
SAU Community

Replaced Motor.. Now There Is No Spark :(

boostdef

By boostdef,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

boostdef Enthusiast

boostdef

Posted
Posted

Long story short, I replaced the motor (rb25det in an r33) with another stock standard one.

Now the new motor had a different coil setup which didnt match the existing loom, so I put the old coils on and it all seems to be plugged in as before.

When cranking i get no spark in the plugs.

There is only one plug which I am mistified about, and that is one coming from the power box on the drivers side of the car. It has 2 prongs in it. I cant for the life of me find the matching plug, and I cant remember if it was previously plugged in.

Spark was perfect before motor change.

Can anyone let me know any suggestions on where to look? Or what tests(with a multimeter) can I do to narrow it down?

Thanks Heaps!! Once its runnin, im driving it off a cliff for a bit of revenge.

J'z-R33 Grand Master

J'z-R33

Posted
Posted

What year is your car and what year motor went into it?

series one have an external ignitor (grey box on top of the valley cover), series two have an internal ignitor on the actual coil.

Cheers,

Johno

boostdef Enthusiast

boostdef

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What year is your car and what year motor went into it?

series one have an external ignitor (grey box on top of the valley cover), series two have an internal ignitor on the actual coil.

Cheers,

Johno

Hi mate thanks alot for the reply. Its a S2 motor going into a S1 r33, but I used all the S1 accessories/loom.. etc.

Anyways, i got it running it turned out i didnt have the CAS clipped in fully... BUT...

Start it, runs for about 30 seconds, starts sounding chattery, black smoke out the exhaust, revs fluctuating.......

Turn it off, pull the dipstick and its coffee white in colour, with water leaking out of the exhaust.. I cant win my last motor blew whilst my mother was driving it at about 60km/h, and now ive spent 2 days installing this one to find out it has a blown head gasket/cracked block... who knows im over it.

So now Im out of options.

How much is it for a shop to fix a head gasket? shave the head and all that??

boostdef Enthusiast

boostdef

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Headgasket, or cracked block or cracked head.

For what its worth maybe find another motor.

Yeah. Well to his credit the seller has been very co-operative and decided to give a full refund (Within half an hour of emailing him). Just means I have to take it back out again but given the situation i am a little more relieved.

I have a rebuilt bottom end which i was practically given but i didnt really want to go the rebuild stage with the gaskets and all that as I just want a reliable car again... But since I have probably halved the time of removing and replacing an rb25det motor due to experience, I may give it a go :D :D

The old head that was on the blown motor I still have, so I may get that crack tested and skimmed or whatever it needs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sydneykid
      Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

      By Sydneykid · Posted

      Probably too late to reply to this, but worth a try. It's not calliper flex, the calliper as a whole is moving so it has to be calliper mounting bracket flex.  Calliper mounting brackets are designed to stop the calliper rotating, they don't need to be designed heavy duty to stop the calliper moving in and out.  Whatever it is is not the major cause of poor pedal feel, the outer pistons are moving towards the disc rotor the same amount as the inner pistons are moving away from the disc rotor.  Hence no change in fluid usage, what extra fluid is needed to move the outer pistons is recovered from the inner pistons. For a calliper to move as a whole by far the most common reason is the rotor is not perfectly centred in the calliper.  The first thing I check is that hub face is perfectly clean, bare metal, where the rotor hats contacts it.  Then I check the that rotor is firmly held in place by at least 3 wheel nuts (or equivalent). If all of the above are confirmed to be in perfect alignment then I would check the piston sizes and ensure that the 3 inner pistons and 3 outer pistons have matching diameters (eg; 28/32/36mm).  I have seen a no name 4 spot calliper that had 1 of the 4 pistons a different diameter. Maybe I missed it, are both the callipers exhibiting the same problem? I would remove the transfer pipe and inspect it to make sure that there are no restrictions. Maybe you already have but if not I would return them with the video and have them confirm all of the above.   Hope that helps Cheers Gary    
    • Sydneykid
      Replica built of first Gibson R32 chassis

      By Sydneykid · Posted

      If you have the original log book and it didn't have a chassis number quoted, then no money required.  I have "rechassied" a number of race cars, no problem as long as you have the original log book.   Cheers Gary
    • robbo_rb180
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      Yeah was planned, cheers.
    • Yeetus
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Yeetus · Posted

      Well the good news is that it won't run any worse with an atmo bov than it does with no bov, I've owned a few Nissans over the years (r32, s15 and now r33), the stalling issue caused by a bov or no bov while still having an afm is easy enough to live with, most people get used to driving them and just feathering the throttle when you come to a stop to avoid it stalling. Changing to a proper ecu with a map sensor is ideal but in the short term I'd just slap in the bov if you really want the whoosh sound. I looked into the pass through type maf like the R35 one above but decided against it as the amount of oil and crap flowing through the hot side would mean you'd have to clean it often to keep it working.
    • MBS206
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Build an 800hp motor. Make it as bullet proof as you want, you WILL still break things. Like, the rest of the car. Heck, even as a dead stock car, things will still break, but the more power, the more everything else will let go easier. From gearbox gear sets, to extra stress on the chassis/mounts, more stress on diff, axles, tailshaft, even the suspension mounts. Check out the motorsport build that last year went to a Bosch motor sport ABS setup, and now can brake so damn hard it's twisting mounts for suspension/subframe etc. Now if the brakes can do it, imagine what happens with super grippy tyres and 800hp in a low gear...   Shit, I'm presently out fixing the girlfriends daily driver that rarely sees past 3,000rpm and is used to cart the dogs around in. Everything WILL break. If you don't want it to break, don't drive it. And then laugh, as it will still break without even being driven!
×
×
  • Create New...