Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So after recent family events I HAVE to part out and sell my 32, so most things will go and ill keep the things that possibly go on my next car for in the near future, so here goes...

Red Top SR20DET - $1200 it comes with Stock Intake, Turbo Manifold, Injectors, Loom, No ecu or Stock Coils, N/A Cams, NISMO Thermostat, Flywheel was comp tested at 145 across all four before I bought it off Erin from JDM GARAGE etc

SR20 Greddy Plenum - $300

R32 100mm GTR Cooler - $300

S13 Engine Dampener - $30

SR20 NISMO Clutch - $200

R32 HSD Coilovers 10/8 - $650

R32 Front Camber Bushes - $200

R32 Cusco Front Strut Brace - $150

R32/S13 Cusco Rear Strut Brace - $150

S13 Rear Toe Arms - $150

R32 Whiteline Adjustable Front SwayBar For R32 - $150

R32GTR Bonnet - $300 Comes with GTR Locking mechcanism

R32GTR Gaurds - $200 Each

R32GTR Front Bar - $350

R32GTR Grill - $100

R32GTR Indicators - $100 For the pair

R32 Non Projector Headlights - $200

Drift Button - $10

Welded R200 Diff - $150

HICAS Lock Bar - $100

R32/S13 Rear Camber Arms - $100

R32 GTR Fuel Pump - $150

APEXi AVCR - $350

Polly Urethane Subframe Bushes - $100

Gutted Cat - $20

3in Mild Steel De-Cat Pipe - $50

D1 Spec Oil Catch Can with Rubber Hose's - $50

3in Dump pipe to Cat with plumbed Screamer - $150

As for the shell ill let it go for $3500 and it includes;

Full Boot interior - And I mean everything inclueding Space Saver Jack Tool Bag, Trimming, Carpet EVERYTHING

Full Cabin Interior - Minus Front seats as im keeping them but a bonus HKS Turbo Timer and APEXi AVCR is left in there

HSD Coilovers 10/8

Rear Camber Arms

HICAS Lock Bar

R33 GTS-T Wheels x2

No Front Panels or Lights - But pending if you want gaurds or what ever other panels on it can be aranged

Half a Tank of Fuel

R32 GTR Fuel Pump

No steering rack

No Castor Rods

Full 5 Stud Hubs all round

Full Brakes all round - with near new rotors and pads all round

Brake Booster and Master

Clutch Master and Lines

All HICAS Removed

Full Glass Windows All round

Welded R200 Diff

Kenwood speakers all round

So all you need to do is wack in a motor, box, loom, steering rack and you got a running car with coilovers and a diff to get you sliding!

Enjoy!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264852-parting-out-32-sale/
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...