Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

because I put it there! :thumbsup:

cams aren't modded - the top comment was in jest of nissan having a whinge about the warranty of these things.

as for tricks of trade. call me mean, but I spent 12hrs under this car and for now the info is not going to be public knowlegede.

Chris,

People on the UK GTR site (www.gtr.co.uk) have also been looking at instaling satnav on the Euro spec cars. Did you use a separate sat nav that just output to the screen in the car or did you tap into the GPS that is installed in all the cars (even non sat nav ones)?

cheers

see above post :)

I'm not trying to be a hard arse here. I simply spent a LOT of time under this car and for now the information stays with me.

I will say this - if you tap the exisxting system you will screw up the lap timer and clock functions as those are GPS derived.

see above post :P

I'm not trying to be a hard arse here. I simply spent a LOT of time under this car and for now the information stays with me.

I will say this - if you tap the exisxting system you will screw up the lap timer and clock functions as those are GPS derived.

Chris

Was hooking up the ipod any easier

not looking for how to do it

Just wondering if its an option ?

Is there a line in?

Cheers for any info

no line in option in the ADM car. Ipod was FM based. (alpine AX10.) I'm working on a ipod solution for them but don't hold your breath.

I'm also chasing schematics for the unit thats in there (I have the model info here.) so I can work out the line/video in stuff.

no line in option in the ADM car. Ipod was FM based. (alpine AX10.) I'm working on a ipod solution for them but don't hold your breath.

I'm also chasing schematics for the unit thats in there (I have the model info here.) so I can work out the line/video in stuff.

Thanks for the info

I still cant fathom why they removed the line in option

For anyone slightly stupid like me I went and got some more info from Adam at Stylyn regarding what's exactly involved in doing everything and what you are actually getting.

As it stands right now the Sat / Nav and Front camera will be operated by switches that will be put into the car under the "R Mode" switches (so above where you put a cd in). You won't be able to see them but they will be an addition to the car. Also - the Sat Nav is technically a stand alone unit (like a Garman) so the screen will only be for viewing. You will need a seperate remote to enter data etc - can't use the touch screen etc like in the US / JDM cars.

The reversing camera will come on as soon as the car is put into reverse so there are no extra switches.

The iPod as mentioned is currently going to be a hard-wired FM transmitter. Again the unit will have to be mounted somewhere you can see it (and it is also controlled by another remote). The iPod cable can be put into the glovebox but the fact is it is still an FM transmitter.

11-13-07-ex-10_1.jpg

For prices you are looking at around $250 for the iPod stuff and around $4K for the Nav and Cameras.

the Ipod price is wrong :blink: it was $299 for the unit.

may as well mention the rest of what adam told you as well :)

that part I'm heavily involved in. if you decide to do the car then you will meet me as I'll probably be the other person along side adam working on it.

  • 2 months later...

ok we have made a revision to this.

the activation switches are now a touch switch. no physical switch to push, no holes in panels - touch one area and the OEM system turns off and the NAVI takes over. touch another area and the FWD camera comes into play.

Edited by Chris Rogers
see above post :P

I'm not trying to be a hard arse here. I simply spent a LOT of time under this car and for now the information stays with me.

I will say this - if you tap the exisxting system you will screw up the lap timer and clock functions as those are GPS derived.

i would keep it to myself too.

......... Nice to meet ya by the way! (H8 TAX)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...