Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mechanically its great! I bought it off my moms partner who used it as a daily until he retired and got a smaller car with my mom and for 18 months it sat in the carport.

In the past 6 months i spent about 2500 on the engine itself and getting it where it is. All thats left to do is to replace the bushes within the next 6-8 months (as my mechanic says), but obviously sooner the better. i've been using it as my everyday car to work, gym, training - the usual- in the condition the car is in at the moment.

The car currently has:

Removed the airbag suspension, as they become costly to repair and replaced them with Bilsten shocks and springs - so you cant adjust height anymore (awww) - but handles AWESOMELY now!

Dual, cat-back exhaust

NGK platinum spark plugs, New leads and Coil packs.. which were all done recently (February 13 2009) and less than 2000kms on them (receipts)

we have repaired the wiring .. so all seats can be adjusted, bum warmers on drivers/passenger seat work, drivers seat is adjustable and now has 2 seat settings switch.

Rego until end of June.

$5500

Well, feel free to ask me more questions.

And call me if you want o432-8o8-254

img0149.jpg

img0151o.jpg

img0148p.jpg

img0147v.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265498-act-1992-toyota-soarer-uzz31-v8/
Share on other sites

wat are you lookin to trade mate? I got a 33 gtr plus cash my way

I'm looking for either cash or a straight swap with no cash adjustment.

looks good karl, hey in the ACT do you need to get a safety cert or similar done for transferr of rego into another owner?

Yeah a RWC (road worthy cert.) is required to transfer vehicle. I can provide one but you will need to transfer the rego within 14 days. After that it needs to be inspected again to get a RWC. Car has rego until 16/6/09.. so you could use that up before getting a rwc

Hmmmm... from the top of my head

The obvious vin/engine number check.. electrical (headlights, indicators, brakes etc..), not too low, not too loud, horn (i failed that once...). I had an rwc done when i transferred it to my name a month ago and it went through with no dramas.

EDIT: sorry.. did u mean outline what is needed on the soarer to pass the RWC? if so, then.. nothing. I did it a month ago and was in and out of there in 15 mins.. its complete stock except for the shocks, but they weren't phased.

Edited by S T A R 3 3

I can provide a rwc on request.. but as I said, the rego runs out in June.. and the RWC is valid for only 2 weeks until you need to get another one.

Price drop to $5200

A/C button starting to blink after 10-15 mins. Still blows cold air, but indicates that its on it's way and will need to be re-gassed. But to be certain, will need to run the A/C diagnostics.

The EMV is getting slow to turn on. Which means the backlight will need to be replaced.. any electronics store/electrician can have it cleaned and replaced (backlight, screen) for around 80-$120. It's been an intermittent problem where it would appear straight away on some occasions, but recently been abit slow and fuzzy to appear.. maybe due to the cold?

  • 3 weeks later...

Pretty keen to sell. $4500?

The good:

The car currently has:

Bilsteins shocks

Dual, cat-back exhaust

NGK platinum spark plugs, New leads and Coil packs.. which were all done recently (February 13 2009)

Engine is in great condition, and mechanically sound. Bushes is all thats left to fix.. but stil in driveable condition.

we have repaired the wiring .. so all seats can be adjusted, bum warmers on drivers/passenger seat work, drivers seat is adjustable and now has 2 seat settings switch.

Rego until end of June.

The Bad:

As per mechanic report - Play in frint upper control arm bushes, Radius rod bushes require attention, Rear dif bushes require replacing.

The niggling problems are aesthetic. Drivers door trim will need to be fixed, the handle is loose and will eventually snap. So at the moment, im closing the door by opening the window. Power windows work, but I was advised the motor (?) will burn out eventually or tracks to be regreased (slow to wind up). Front leather (ie seats, steering wheel and centre console) have usual wear and tear. EMV will need to be cleaned and backlight replaced. Any electronics repair shop will be able to do that and they have estimated around $70-120 for that. At the moment the EMV turns on and off intermittently and when there is no image, the options on the screen can still be pressed, but not seen.. you know?

The Ugly:

DSC03508.jpg

DSC03510.jpg

DSC03512.jpg

DSC03513.jpg

DSC03516.jpg

DSC03517.jpg

DSC03520.jpg

DSC03525.jpg

DSC03526.jpg

DSC03527.jpg

Well, feel free to ask me more questions. If you want more pictures of anything in particular, please ask, I'll be more than happy to take them.

And call me if you want 0432 808 254

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...