Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

A mate of mine just had his timing belt,w/pump, idlers etc on his R32 replaced by a local mechanic. Anyways two days later he noticed a rubbing noise coming out from under the timing cover. We pull it off, and where the belt runs on the cam pulleys, it is hanging over by about 3-4mm....

We assumed the tension was wrong ,so we reset the tension on the timing belt...but turned the engine over by hand a few times, and within about 5 turns the belt had already started working its way off the cam pulleys..finally it gets to where its about 4mm off then runs steady and doesnt go any further, but our concern is that it may start to wear the belt abnormally quick..

Is this the result of the belt not being tensioned correctly the first time and wearing the belt??

If so he should replace the belt?(car has done about 50kms since th eservice)

Is it the tensioner hasnt been installed properly?

Or is it something more sinister??

If anyone has experienced this before, or has some insight it would be much appreciated!!

Thanks all,

Ben

Edited by Benzy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265734-timing-belt-problems/
Share on other sites

Timing belts always track to one side due to the way the tensile cords are put in the belt. The flanges on pulleys/sprockets are what keep the belt from tracking off. The distance between the flanges will be less than the width of the other pulleys in the system.

So I would assume that the problem is something to do with the flagnes, ie the crank pulley as already mentioned. The other cause for the belt tracking incorrectly is misaligned pulleys. Being an engine though this shouldn't normally be an issue unless things haven't been installed correctly. The crank pulley is pushed/pressed on from memory so maybe it just isn't pushed on far enough?

Tension does not make the belt run off of the edge of a pulley.

Either way you don't want the belt running off of the edge of a pulley as it will reduce the belts life.

Thanks for the responses guys, had a quick squiz this morning, and It looks like the crank TIMING PULLEY could be on too far ?? The gaurd that slips on behind the main pulley is extremley loose (1-2mm play) And just by looking at the belt, it appears to twist back slightly under the tensioner and idler....

But how could that timing pulley move back towards the block? As the mechanic wouldnt have had to touch it..

Only other thing it could be is the main pulley isnt on far enough..(as mentioned above, cheers) ill get a torque wrench and check it this arvo...

Ill get a laser pulley aligner from work too and check they are all level..

But if the bottom timing pulley HAS moved, where do we go from there?? Anyone else ever had this problem??

Any insight is much appreciated,

Thanks again, Ben

Thanks for the responses guys, had a quick squiz this morning, and It looks like the crank TIMING PULLEY could be on too far ?? The gaurd that slips on behind the main pulley is extremley loose (1-2mm play) And just by looking at the belt, it appears to twist back slightly under the tensioner and idler....

Something is seriously wrong here and your mate shouldn't drive the car or even run the engine until it's been properly investigated. From your description it sounds as if the harmonic balancer hasn't been tensioned correctly or something has been mis-assembled in that area. If it were me I'd be taking the harmonic balancer off, plus all the timing covers and have close look at everything. Certainly if the belt has been rubbing on the covers (or anything else) you should be inspecting it for damage and possibly even replacing it entirely.

Also find another mechanic......

Yep. Car is never going back to that mechanic... Ok, harmonic balancer is now off, I have checked the engine manual, but cant see anything wrong, apart from the timing pulley doesnt meet the keyway on the shaft...if you get what i mean...The keyway ends then 2mm gap then timing pulley....Is it meant to meet it?? Yep,Have already orderd a new gates racing belt.

Edited by Benzy

Problem SOLVED!!! MECHANIC DIDNT TIGHTEN THE HARMONIC BALANCER!!! After we pulled it off, fitted the new belt and refitted the balancer it tightened the whole way up to the timing pulley. Very relieved. no more overhang..Needless to say, the mechanic is going to be paying us for the replacement belt! Thanks heaps to everone who offered insight and advice both here and via PM. Couldnt ask for a better outcome

Cheers,

Ben

The harmonic balancer bolt on the RB26 needs to be tightened very tight. About double your average balancer bolt tension. From memory its up around 420 ft-lb. If it wasnt tightened correctly then that could have caused it to come loose.

Deren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...